This cowl is available in two sizes:

This tam is knit in the traditional Fair Isle style, with corrugated ribbing, in the round. The star ded pattern is charted.

The cowl is created by casting on the circumference of the cowl provisionally, knitting one side, working a turning round, then working the other side. Once completed you will remove the provisional cast-on and place the beginning stitches on a circular needle. Folding the piece in half at the fold line, you will either graft the beginning stit...

This simple shawl works up quickly in DK weight yarn, but you could use any weight wool to knit it. Choose a needle size that gives you a nice drape: a size or two larger than recommended for the yarn. You can also vary the patterns, working more or fewer rows of the garter and lace patterns.

This is my nod to Swedish Bohus knitting, one of the loveliest styles of colorwork I know. This cowl is created by casting on the circumference of the cowl provisionally, knitting one side, working a turning round, and then working the other side. Once the knitting is completed you will remove the provisional cast-on and place the beginning sti...

This cowl is worked as a long tube: it starts with a provisional cast-on and is worked in the round in two-color stranded stockinette, then the live stitches at the end are grafted to the live stitches released from the provisional cast-on.

This cowl is worked as a long tube: it starts with a provisional cast-on and is worked in the round in two-color stranded stockinette, then the live stitches at the end are grafted to the live stitches released from the provisional cast-on.

All proceeds from the pattern are donated to animal charities.

Sanquhar is a town in Scotland, noted for its distinctive two-color knitting. I have knitted Sanquhar socks and gloves in the past, and thought a cowl would be a perfect “sampler” project to showcase many different motifs. I charted most of these motifs from looking at old photographs of Sanquhar knitting, and may have made a minor change to tr...

While this pattern is written specifically to be worked with three skeins of Freia Ombré Worsted, you can use it with any yarn, any gauge. Simply use a needle that gives a nice firm rib stitch without being too stiff, and work a gauge swatch. Cast on as many stitches as you need according to your gauge for the circumference you want (an even nu...

While this pattern is written specifically to be worked with two skeins of Freia Ombré Sport, you can use it with any yarn, any gauge. Simply use a needle that gives a nice firm garter stitch without being too stiff, and work the increases until you have the desired width.

Welcome to my Summer Mystery Shawl Knit-Along for 2014! If you purchase before July 12, you will receive an Introduction that is a placeholder for the pattern, with yarn and needle requirements and gauge information. The pattern itself will then be released in three parts: Knitting will commence on July 12 with the first piece of the pattern. T...

This scarf with Norwegian motifs is worked in the round and blocked flat so that it is double-sided, for extra warmth and thickness. Rather than a traditional fringe, it has a fringe made from knitted-on i-cords.

This double-sided cowl with traditional Norwegian motifs starts with a provisional cast-on and is knit in the round. You will knit double the depth, fold it in half, and attach the live stitches on the needle to the live stitches at the beginning (after you remove the provisional cast-on) via a three-needle bind-off, or by grafting.

Stranded colorwork fingerless mitts with a dragon motif, worked in fingering weight yarn. You can use two solid colors, or a solid and a variegated, as I did in the sample.

This is the perfect project to use up those many small odds and ends of sock yarn you have collected over the years. Or a perfect excuse for buying multiple mini-skeins of fingering weight yarn!

This cape is worked from the bottom up and features panels of Celtic knotwork cables. The neck is finished with an applied i-cord, and stitches for a collar are picked up and knit from the i-cord. Front bands are picked up and knit along the front edges. You will need twelve 3/4” buttons.

This poncho is knit from side to side, with separate “shoulder straps” that attach the front to the back. You can use any smooth worsted weight yarn.

This sideways garter stitch scarf has a simple lace edging that is worked as you knit the body. The sample is knit with fingering weight yarn, but you can knit this pattern with almost any yarn at any gauge. The pattern includes both specific instructions for the fingering weight version, and general instructions for all other versions.

Welcome to the WendyKnits Mystery Shawl KAL 2013! The KAL began on June 1, 2013.

This rectangular wrap is worked in stranded colorwork in the round as a tube with steek stitches, then cut open through the center of the steek to make a flat piece.

Originally designed for the attendees of The Loopy Ewe Spring Fling 2013, this sideways garter-stitch shawl pattern is now available for everyone.

Here’s a hooded scarf pattern that’s easy to knit and fast to complete. The mock rib pattern used works up quickly and is attractive from either side.

Here’s a hooded scarf pattern that’s easy to knit and fast to complete. The mock rib pattern used works up quickly and is attractive from either side.

Use any smooth worsted weight wool or wool blend that you can knit to a gauge of 4st/inch. You will need a circular needle in the size to attain gauge that is 24” long for the collar, and a longer needle to transfer to as you increase stitches. I knit the sample using a 40” needle.

Pattern is both charted and written out

The pattern is both written and charted.

The shawl is sort of a crescent shape that stays on the shoulders nicely. Knit from fingering weight yarn (expect it to take around 420 yards and it’s better to have a more solid than variegated colorway), it is extremely easy to re-size (and complete instructions for doing so will be included).

This sideways garter stitch wrap has short-row shaping and a lace edging that is worked as you knit the body. Short rows in the body give a gentle curve at the neck so the shawlette stays put when you wear it.

Easy-to-knit garter-stitch scarf with ruffles on both sides. While the sample was knit with fingering weight wool, you could use any weight up to a light DK weight. (Anything heavier will give you very stiff ruffles!)

This wrap is knit in garter stitch and the ruffles are created using short rows. The sample was knit using fingering weight yarn, but you can use other weights as well.

Pattern uses 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550) yards fingering weight yarn. you can use silk, cotton, wool, or blends -- whatever you like.

Uses 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550) yards fingering weight yarn -- you can use silk, cotton, wool, or blends -- whatever you prefer!

You need 2 skeins of yarn: approximately 200 yards of the background color and 150 yards of the contrast color.

This pattern uses 150 yards of fingering weight yarn in each of two colors

The pattern contains instructions (both charted and written) for both hats.

You need approximately 150 yards of each of 2 colors.

You need 150 yards of each of 2 colors.

This is a short-row scarf or shawlette that starts with knitting an edging. You then pick up stitches on the long straight edge of your edging and work up from the bottom. Short rows create a gentle curve in the pieces.

This shawl is worked in the round, using the “pi” construction created by the great Elizabeth Zimmermann. Each section is knit from a different chart, and that chart is repeated a number of times around. Each line of the chart is also written out, and those written out instructions are for one “repeat” of each chart. For each section of the sha...

This is a circular shawl, knit from the center out in a spiral. It has a 42” diameter, unblocked, 60” diameter, lightly blocked, but could be blocked out to at least 66”.

The unblocked shawl measures approximately 50” across the top and 23” down the center back. Blocked it measures 70” across and 33” down the center back. These measurements are approximate because they depend on how severely you block your piece.

The unblocked shawl measures 46” across the top and 20” down the center back. Blocked it measures 58” across and 29” down the center back. These measurements are approximate because they depend on how severely you block your piece.

This is a good design for someone new to lace who wants to try something larger than a scarf.

The unblocked shawl measures 50” across the top and 25” down the center back. Blocked it measures 70” across and 35” down the center back. These measurements are approximate because they depend on how severely you block your piece.

4/23/11: I’ve uploaded a new version of this pattern. The first 2 stitches in Row 1 of Chart C should be “ssk, k1” not “ssk, k2tog” as on the previous version. My apologies for any problems this may have caused.

Blocked measurements: approximately 64″ across the top edge and 32″ down the center back.

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, XXL) – chest: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)”, length: 26 (26.75, 27.5, 28.5, 29)”

lightly blocked, the scarf measures 40” across the long edge and 9” deep at the center back.

The shawlette pictured was made with 1 skein of Madelintosh Pashmina, but you could use pretty much any yarn in any weight, as you work this shawl sideways. You will do increases on the first half until you use up half your yarn, then decreases on the second half. Instructions for working the shawl this way, as well as exact directions for the ...

The fish pictured was knit using Cascade 220: approximately 50 yards of color #9542 Blaze (main color), and 20 yards of color #9493 Salmon (contrast color)

The unblocked shawl measures 52” across the top and 18” down the center back. Blocked it measures 72” across and 28” down the center back. These measurements are approximate because they depend on how severely you block your piece.

This shoulder shawl has a fun shape – it consists of 5 wedge-shaped sections. On each even-numbered round, you are increasing 10 stitches, so your work widens dramatically as you knit. If you wish, you can experiment – knit fewer or more wedges to make a shawlette that is narrower or wider. You will, of course, have to adjust the amount of yarn...

Pattern calls for 400 yards for the scarf version and 800 yards for the stole version.

Shawlette

Note: The lace motif for the body of this shawl features a double yarnover – you wrap your yarn around the needle twice in a row. As you knit back over these two yarnovers on the wrong side, you will purl the first yarnover and knit the second yarnover.

The unblocked shawl measures 44” across the top and 16” down the center back. Blocked it measures 58” across and 23” down the center back. These measurements are approximate because they depend on how severely you block your piece.

The Miss Woodhouse Shawl is a “more than a triangle” shawl -- extra increases on the outer edges make it grow faster in width than in length.

The unblocked shawl measures 40” across the top and 20” down the center back. Blocked it measures 56” across and 25” down the center back. These measurements are approximate because they depend on how severely you block your piece.

This shawlette can be knit from one 100-gram skein of sock yarn and when blocked measures approximately 54” across the top (wingspan) and 25” down the center back.

The unblocked shawl measures 48” across the top and 24” down the center back. Blocked it measures 64” across and 34” down the center back.

Seven patterns are included in this download: curlicue earrings, i-cord eyeglasses lanyard, a mini-sock, a nose-up catnip mouse with an i-cord tail, an i-cord hair scrunchie, a wee amulet bag, and a lace bookmark.

An easy Faroese-style shawl knit from the bottom up in dk/light worsted yarn.

Faroese shawl knit from the top down. You can make the shawl longer or shorter by simply knitting more or fewer rows. The bottom is finished with a seed stitch band

I made this shawl in the size listed using just under 3 skeins of Ella Rae Lace Merino -- 1380 yards. If you want to make it a bit larger, you can add rows to the last body pattern chart and increase the yarn needed.

An Italian translation has been added for this pattern, thanks to Maria Rosa Spighetti. When you click on the download link, you can choose to download either the English or the Italian version of the pattern