This sock is worked top-down, starting by working flat with a tiny folded hem for the tie to go through. The next section has an i-cord edging for a neat finish with increases at each side until the instructed stitch count is reached, then the leg is joined in the round. The heel and toe are worked in garter stitch, creating a super squishy, stretchy heel. The left and right socks are worked slightly differently so they are symmetrical and the triangle section sits on the outside of each leg. At points in these instructions, the directions will differ for the right and left socks. Lastly, an i-cord tie is worked, which can be adjusted in length if you want it to wrap around your leg more or less. If you have a knitting machine or i-cord machine, feel free to use these to speed up the process. You can also experiment with different types of ties, like cords or elastic, and even add fastenings like a toggle.

This pattern is suitable for intermediate knitters or ambitious/advanced beginners.

YARN
100g of fingering weight sock yarn
A small amount of waste yarn
I have used Adventure Sock Yarn in Toddbrook Dam by Mammie and Florrie
Note: If this is your first time knitting socks I would suggest getting a wool yarn with around 25% nylon, this adds durability to the socks meaning they will last longer

NEEDLES & NOTIONS
2.25mm needles (or needles needed to obtain gauge) in either DPN’s, 9” fixed circulars or long fixed circulars for magic loop
A spare needle or stitch holder
A stitch marker
Darning needle
Crochet hook (if you use a crochet provisional cast on)

GAUGE
9 stitches per inch
You don’t need to worry about row gauge as this done by measurements
Note: Make sure you block your swatch before measuring gauge!

SIZING
Below is the circumference measurements of the finished socks, I recommend choosing a size that gives you 1-2” or 2.5-5cm negative ease.
6” (7”) 8” (9”) or 15.3cm (17.8cm) 20.3cm (22.9cm)