Azilal Bomber Jacket by Merete Kibøl Andersen

Azilal Bomber Jacket

Knitting
November 2023
Worsted (9 wpi) ?
19 stitches = 4 inches
US 7 - 4.5 mm
1640 yards (1500 m)
One size - adjustable
English
This pattern is available for kr.50.00 DKK buy it now

Please read this before purchasing my pattern (DISCLAIMER)
Due to my cognitive disabilities, I am unable to do e.g. size gradings and coordinate a large test. For this reason, this pattern comes in one size only and in English only. However I am doing my very best to offer a well written pattern and include size modification tips.

Want to know more - watch this YouTube video

I have been holding back my designs due to the above, but adventurous knitters have encouraged me to publish my patterns. They tell me, they are able to make their own modifications, and I want to accommodate them with my patterns.

Pay what you wish
I offer my patterns at a variable price structure. I’d like the acknowledgement of the work behind a design, but I also acknowledge that I don’t offer an extensive instruction. So I will let you decide what the right price is for you. Feel free to use the coupon below at check-out.

It has taken me 3 years to write a pattern for The Azilal Bomber Jacket. It has been a lot of work and struggle, therefore I can’t offer it for free like some of my other designs.

Coupon
MereteKdesign1 - 50% off price shown

YouTube video about the design, size and colors.

The Azilal Bomber Jacket is inspired by the Moroccan Azilal rugs. Each of the rugs are unique, and are recognized by having a lot of squares and neon colors, usually on a light background. They are amazing, and I really love the creativity that is put into the designs by each of the lovely makers.

The Azilal Bomber Jacket is equally designed to knit a unique piece everyone will admire. It is knitted with many colors using intarsia for the color blocks. The instructions for intarsia are optional, and gives you the freedom to decide how much you want to use intarsia. It can be used all over, for parts of the jacket (like the samples) or not at all. Invite as many colors you like or just a few, and make your work a painting canvas.

Pleace notice, that the black and white version is a prototype. The final design has a new neckline and shoulder shaping.

Construction
The Azilal Bomber Jacket is constructed with modular knitting and is worked flat throughout using mainly knit stitches.
To begin with, the Center back panel is knitted bottom up. Stitches are picked up on the sides, and each back side is knitted sideways from the center and outward until the neckline is shaped. The front sides are knitted the same way, beginning with two Center front panels.
The 3 pieces are joined together by knitting a collar. From here on the Azilal Bomber Jacket can be tried on during the knitting.
The body is knitted flat from the front across the shoulder to the back, and vice versa on the other side. Decreases shapes the shoulders. The sleeves are knitted flat across the shoulder, when the body is finished.
The sides of the Azilal Bomber Jacket are joined together, by knitting side panels onto the sides of the body.
The Azilal Bomber Jacket is finished off by seaming together the sleeves under arm, and knitting rib and edging. And finally a zipper is sewn onto the jacket.

Optional intarsia
The design has broken stripes on the body, and diamonds in the center panels and on the sleeves. These details are incorporated using the intarsia technique. If you are unfamiliar with intarsia, please look up tutorials before using the technique. It is easier than you might think, so I encourage you to try it out. But I have designed the jacket, so you can choose whether or not to add these intarsia details.

The amount of intarsia used is also up to you. For instance add them all over the bomber jacket, both for the broken stripes and for the diamonds for a really graphic version. Or use them in certain places, like in the samples. Or for a stripy version, by not using them at all. The pattern instructs you when to use the different kinds, and if followed you will knit a version like the samples. But if you want more, just add them whenever, and if you want a stripy version, just skip the instructions.

Size and measurements
This pattern comes in one size only, however the size is adjustable and the pattern gives many guidelines on how to adjust the size. The video above gives a walkthrough on how to modify the size yourself.

Yarn and yardage
Worsted weight yarn. The pattern used different brands of Peruvian Highland Wool 100 m / 50 g per ball.

For a fun version add glitter yarns and also dive into your stash to find yarns. Instead of knitting with a worsted weight yarn, you could also knit two strands of fingering weight yarns together if it gives the same gauge. Choose solid colored and non super washed yarns.

It’s NOT necessary to use the same brand of yarn throughout. The following brands are an option. You can use www.yarnsub.com to find alternative brands.

  • Grønhøj Garn; Peru wool.
  • Filcolana; Peruvian highland.
  • Cascade 220, 200 m / 100 g.

There are 3 Main Colors (MC dark, MC light, MC neon) and 9-12 Contrast Colors (CC). The MCs are important as they represent the background and are used for Center panels, ribbing, parting stripes and diamonds.

  • MC dark should be really dark, e.g. black or dark blue. MC dark is used for ribbings, i-cord edging, and in general for framing the CCs.
  • MC light should be really light, e.g. white or light mint. MC light is used for Center panels, for diamonds, and in general for framing the CCs.
  • MC neon should really be popping compared to any of the other colors used, e.g. neon yellow or bright pink. MC neon is used for the diamonds, for a garter ridge before the ribbings, and in general for framing the CCs.

For CCs, you will need 9-12 different colors. They can be of different color families or the same. It’s the variation that makes the bomber jacket special. For a high contrasting bomber jacket like the black and white sample, don’t choose very dark CCs.

Purple sample used 3 MCs and 9 CCs, and a total of 750 g / 1500 m.
MC dark: 250 m (3 balls of 50 g)
MC light: 175 m (2 balls of 50 g)
MC neon: 90 m (1 ball of 50 g)
9 CCs: approx 1000 m (11 balls of 50 g to alternate with)

The black and white sample used 3 MCs and 12 CCs, and a total of 750 g / 1500 m.

Skill level
Medium difficulty to advanced.

Techniques

  • Garter knitting
  • Knitting flat
  • Intarsia (optional)
  • Modular construction
  • Attaching panels while knitting
  • Size modification as you knit (can be tried on)
  • I-cord BO
  • Twisted rib
  • Tubular Bind off method (optional)
  • Seaming sleaves using mattress stitching