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Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9)

Finished chest (fullest point) circumference: 78 (86.5, 97, 107, 117, 127.5, 137.5, 147.5, 158)cm / 30¾ (34, 38¼, 42, 46¼, 50¼, 54, 58, 62¼)“ – to be worn with 0-5cm / 0-2” positive ease.
Bintou’s height is 168cm / 5’5” with a chest (fullest point) circumference of 112cm / 44” and is shown wearing a size 5.

Yarn A: Retrosaria Rosa Pomar Brusca (DK-weight;
100% fine Portuguese wool; 125m / 136yds per
50g skein)
Shade: 14C Raspberry; 7 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) skeins

Yarn B: Retrosaria Rosa Pomar Mondim (fingering / 4-ply-weight; 100% Portuguese wool; 385m / 421yds per 100g skein)
Shades:
109 Orchata; 1 ball
106 Lilas; 1 ball
307 Dark Grey; 1 ball
110 Lichia; 1 ball
108 Rosa; 1 ball

OR
Yarn A: approx. 780 (850, 930, 1020, 1075, 1145, 1190, 1300, 1345)m / 853 (930, 1017, 1116, 1176, 1253, 1302, 1422, 1471)yds of DK-weight yarn
Yarn B: approx. 30m / 27yds of fingering / 4-ply-weight yarn in each of 5 colours, or as desired for contrasting sections

Gauge: 19 sts & 16 rows of dslBLO = 10cm / 4” using 5mm hook, after blocking.

Hook: 5mm / US H crochet hook
Always use a hook size that will result in the correct gauge after blocking.

Notions: 18 locking stitch markers, waste yarn, tapestry needle

Notes: City Lights is crocheted sideways in four pieces, in a stitch that creates a ribbed look. The front and back panels begin at the side of the body, with increases and decreases at one end to shape the raglan and neckline. The sleeves are shaped at both ends with large increases and decreases. With the RS facing, the hem edge of each piece will be on the right and the top shoulder edge on the left.

Designer notes:
Hi! It’s Sandra here. After reading some of your project notes, I thought I could add some tips to make the process and the finished object more enjoyable.

1. Since the pieces are made in vertical rows, row gauge accounts for the width of the body and sleeves, while stitch gauge accounts for the length. If you’re struggling to get gauge, focus on row gauge and adjust the length. Also, it’s better to be under gauge (have a smaller jumper that can be stretched when blocked) than over gauge (end up with a larger jumper) - but it’s best to have the right gauge ;).
2. The individual pattern comes with instructions for adjusting body length to taste.
3. It would be a good idea to measure the front and back as you go. If it’s too wide, do a few less rows at the middle of the neck.
4. If the neck opening is too wide after joining the pieces, work a few decreases around to reduce the opening and make a wider ribbing. I hope this helps! Feel free to contact me with any questions!

US crochet terminology used throughout.