All tof he hard work in this sweater is in  the collar which may take you as long as  the entire rest of the sweater  Everything else is a piece of cake.  Whether the collar is worn up or open,  the cables look the same. Although  there is no shoulder shaping, the use of  black at the top of both torso and  sleeves creates a more flattering line  than dropped shoulder sweaters normally  offer. 

YARN, GAUGE AND MACHINE:  2 gauges are given so that standard, mid-gauge or bulky machines may be used. 2 colors of Tamm Microtamm yarn are required for standard, Passap or mid-gauge  machines. One cone of each is enough for all sizes. A gauge of 24 stitches/34 rows per  4” is usually achieved on Passap 5mm machines at stitch size 6-7, on Japanese standard  gauge machines at 7-8 and mid-gauge machines at 3-5. Mid-gauge machines cannot make  the largest sizes in Microtamm. For mid-gauge and bulky machines, 2 cones of Tamm  Nordic may be used at a gauge of 16 stitches/25 rows per 4”. Stitch size on the bulky in  Nordic is likely to be 3-5. On the mid-gauge 5-8  is likely. Most bulkies can make up to size 50 bust.