The tapered end is the top, so it fits a little snugger around your neck. It is open and drapey, so it might benefit from some sort of pin or a button if you want it to be snug. I used two strands of Caron’s Simply Soft in Soft Green since it is only a worsted weight. This cowl can be worn either way. One side the cables will run vertical and the other they will run horizontal.