Don’t like or have a good relationship with your Ribber? NO PROBLEM! These easy to make, speedy form fitted socks offer a new option for a summer sock design. AND - this video is matched with a step by step 5 page free written PDF pattern to make it easier to follow along.

• The INSTRUCTION of this sock is SILENT (but not the kitchener video after) - please see below why *

Written pattern to be available here and will continue to be available at https://www.csmlove.com/s/csm_cd_mockribhhss1.pdf

The video is linked here and is also on YouTube at https://youtu.be/FY45JiqPga8

In recognition of those persons with reduced or limited hearing - the SOCK VIDEO was recorded silent and enhanced with text as needed (it was harder than I thought!). After completing the demo I have added the new HOW TO KITCHENER YOUR SOCK video (from the inside/purl-side) as I do it. The Kitchener video has sound.

GENERAL INFO:
-For best success, take each step one at a time however work each step clearly knowing where to be for the next part - I strongly recommend viewing the written pattern steps.
-This method is the same regardless to what CSM is used, higher or lower slot count cylinders might need more or less additional needles for the DEEPER HEEL.
-A Deeper Heel creates more of a cupping effect allowing shorter socks to stay put
-In my opinion and testing, adding a PRE-HEEL (segment between cuff and heel on cuff down socks) tends to better fit the heel and therefore stay in place
- I highly recommend using the Heel Spring throughout
-In my opinion one can make this sock without Mock Rib, however I feel without Mock Rib the sock doesn’t fit as nicely
-Scrap sock weight yarn is defined here as any fiber (acrylic or not) which is the same weight/diameter as your sock yarn
-To manage stitch tension I prefer to use sock weight scrap for just a few rows before/after a sock yarn project, economically I use an inexpensive cotton doily fiber between on machine projects (although its harder to hang the buckle and weights on - adding a hemostat clip helps)
-The Heel and the Toe are both worked on the side of the machine closest to me (between the 9-6-3 o’clock positions).
-When hanging a mock ribbed cuff in a hung hem, its easier to ensure all the stitches align by knitting some initial rows of the cuff at the start, otherwise stitches don’t align when hanging and/or can end up being too tight to hang.
-The No-Wrap Heel and Toe method were used - with slight differences on where to work final Heel row and where to decrease the Toe to.
-How deep or narrow you choose to work the heel/toe and how close to average heel marks you work during the decrease can be adapted for unique Heel anatomy.
-This awesome pattern starts and ends the same so additional socks can easily be made without extra setup.

THE BEST THING TO CONSIDER WHEN WORKING ANY SOCK RECIPE IS THAT YOU CAN EASILY PLUG YOUR OWN PREFERRED CUFF, HEEL OR TOE METHODS - IF THAT’S YOUR PREFERENCE

This VIDEO REVIEWS:
-The finished sock with detailed view
-The open sock toe as it appears once finished and off the machine
-Using cotton thread (or any non sock weight scrap) in addition to sock weight scrap yarn
-A hung hem cuff
-Adding mock rib 1x3 on the cuff
-Adding cylinder needles to certain empty mock rib slots
-Ensuring the deeper (wider heel) has no mock rib empty slots
-Hanging specific neighbor stitches from both sides on each newly added cylinder needle for the heel
-Hanging a specific neighbor stitch on one side for each newly added cylinder needle for the last row of the foot - before the toe
-Hanging the hem
-A Heel/Toe using the No Wrap method
-Ensuring the final Heel Left and Right rows are one row less than heel start to reduce heel intersection holes
-How to use a vintage Gearhart Hold Down heel tool
-How some yarn is more sticky on the machine - requiring stronger babysitting - than others
-Why it’s a good idea to stop one row from the end of your foot to first ensure all needles are cylinder needles (then work the last row) so that it’s easier to Kitchener or close the toes later
-Two ways to add yarn on the machine - 1 at the yarn source or 2 near the work (I just method 1)
-Two ways to fix a unknitted but not dropped cylinder stitch - 1 by lifting lower stitch over top or 2 lifting cylinder spring and managing cylinder needle to manually knit unknitted stitch (creates a more even tension on the stitch)
-How I separate the scrap from sock yarn
-How I Kitchener from the Purl side(inside)

Have a question or concern? Please email me direct at karenramel@yahoo.com

For more CSM LOVE please see my free website www.csmlove.com

NEW to the idea/CSM’s? Check out my www.csmlove.com/csm-start

All Cuff Down Sock patterns can be found on https://www.csmlove.com/sockscd

Check out my first project with this new pattern Socks #84 https://ravel.me/karenramel/s8cc7t