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> CSM Cuff Down Sock with Ribber Removal
![](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677310836/E2BB8E0B-04E9-4BEC-AB85-E210EDC2CF44_thumbnail.jpg)
![](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677310836/E2BB8E0B-04E9-4BEC-AB85-E210EDC2CF44_small2.jpg)
![](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677310831/41B93FD9-CB75-4734-AB51-6675059F633A_small2.jpg)
![](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677209369/IMG_3734_small2.jpg)
![](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208788/IMG_4300_medium.jpg)
![View of the split ring cast on bonnet with orange scrap weight acrylic. Work about this much before adding the ribber.](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208827/IMG_4246_small.png)
![Once you add the ribber, determine which ribber needle slot aligns best for the 3pm start point.](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208945/IMG_4255_small2.png)
![Add ribber needles to the ribber dial, transferring stitch from the cylinder. We are setting up for a 1x1 ribbing (1 knit, 1 purl, repeat). Here is the 36 slot ribber dial on the 72 slot cylinder.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208924/IMG_4273_small2.png)
![After working the cuff we change from 1x1 to 1x3 (1 purl, 3 knit stitches). With this setup that means transferring each second ribber stitch in the dial to the cylinder.](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208816/IMG_4275_small2.png)
![After finishing the leg we removed the ribber needles where the heel will happen and then worked a PREHEEL. Here we see the end of that section with next step to remove the ribber after parking the ribber needles.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208883/IMG_4277_small2.png)
![The view of the work with the ribber removed. Here we discover what was hidden - two areas of dropped stitches.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208815/IMG_4281_small2.png)
![Now we rest the upside down ribber needles on the inside of the cylinder (so that they don't clash with the yarn carrier during the heel building). Here we use an elastic to lock in the down needles so that when we lift the knitting no stitches will drop.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208826/IMG_4287_small2.png)
![Here we latch up or fix the last three knit stitches before the preheel then the remaining 10 preheel rib stitches (as viewed from the inside of the sock)](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208808/IMG_4291_small.png)
![Here we latch up the ribber needle dropped stitch.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208794/IMG_4295_small2.png)
![What it looks like after fixing both dropped stitch areas.](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208833/IMG_4301_small2.png)
![Those resting ribber needles are put again upside down into the cylinder slots and the ribber is returned to the machine. Now to transfer the ribber needles back into the ribber dial after determining which ribber slot the needles align with.](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677209005/IMG_4311_medium.png)
![This is the view of those ribber needles aligning with the ribber dial prior to re-inserting to the dial.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208879/IMG_4313_small2.png)
![After working the foot with the ribber needles still in work on the top of the foot, we work the full foot minus one row, on that last row we transfer all remaining ribber needles and work that final row.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208849/IMG_4316_small2.png)
![The final row of the foot is done (back half of the machine 3-12-9) with all being the same stitches it will make closing the toe with Kitchenering much easier. Now we work the toe.](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208847/IMG_4321_small2.png)
![Toe complete with back needles finally put back into work. Now all that is done is to work to just before 3pm then change to scrap yarn. Ensure you have left a tail long enough that you can use it to close the toes off the machine.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208851/IMG_4324_small2.png)
![Here the orange is the sock weight scrap acrylic yarn then lesser cotton yarn as a space to put the project further down in the machine so that doing the second sock won't need the heel weight for the fabric to be even under the machine.](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677208836/IMG_4327_small2.png)
![](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/karenramel/677310833/9EBEAAC7-84B6-4DF7-9825-98D0787DCC8E_small2.jpg)
CSM Cuff Down Sock with Ribber Removal
CUFF DOWN SOCK WITH RIBBER PARK AND REST (REMOVAL) - original
EDIT: I’ve since uploaded a same style but upgraded version of this video see that after watching the original version matched to the written pattern - https://youtu.be/zZKtAZRuok8
DETAILED VIDEO - https://youtu.be/_yV2-Q7tGhg
DETAILED FREE PATTERN - https://www.csmlove.com/s/csm_cuffdown_sock_ribber_remova...
HOW TO CREATE SOCKS THAT FIT DEPENDS ON THE GAUGE!
I’ve made this sock using my tension setting 3 dial turns from the tightest setting. This is something I determined beforehand. How many rows your sock will need depends on gauge.
When wishing to create a specific sized sock it is important to know what you stitch gauge is in relation to your CSM and the yarn attributes. Simply following the same row numbers without having the same gauge will not give you a same sized sock like the one shown here. For tension setting info see https://ravel.me/karenramel/cgs
This method is the same regardless to what CSM, cylinder or ribber is used. Don’t want or have a ribber? Simply skip those parts and make a Hung Hem (not shown) cuff down sock with or without Mock Rib (take out needles in a pattern).
In order to use the ribber on your machine it’s important that it is TIMED, meaning that its setup to work so stitches don’t drop during use. Sometimes timing needs an adjustment using different fiber weights.
A ribber only works going forward (not in reverse) which is why I note where one should be on the machine when working certain steps. :) YOU CAN DO IT!
Find all of my CUFF DOWN SOCKS - https://www.csmlove.com/sockscd
TOE UP SOCKS - https://www.csmlove.com/sockstu
How I size socks: https://www.csmlove.com/blog/tf7md6gqtlcnxbdsyqmhff536lo0z0
Looking for something specific and not finding it? Look it up by category at https://www.csmlove.com/index
Got a question? Email me or message me here.
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- First published: January 2020
- Page created: January 26, 2020
- Last updated: February 28, 2022 …
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