The HOW TO VIDEO: https://youtu.be/GHb9Dhe25ho

PDF Pattern: https://www.csmlove.com/s/csm_jamjar_mockrib.pdf

Find this pattern on my website Projects page at: https://www.csmlove.com/projects

This pattern was first used in project Cover #5: Jam Jar https://ravel.me/karenramel/c5j

GENERAL INFO:
-As with all patterns, for best success, take each step one at a time and only work each step clearly knowing where to be for the next part.
-This method is the same regardless to what CSM is used, higher or lower slot count cylinders might need more or less stitch tension or fiber with properties best for fit.
-This pattern uses the same mock rib pattern on the cuff and body of the project, however you could choose to change to any stitch pattern you wish on either of these segments, choosing potentially to make the body of the cover more lacey for example.
-This pattern uses the Heel Spring throughout

This VIDEO REVIEWS:
-My easy direct approach making it easy to follow on your own machine
-The finished project with detailed views
-All CSM projects start at the first slot after 3 o’clock
-Stopping the Yarn Carrier at 7 o’clock aligns the cylinder spring rest at the 3 o’clock position
-My Easy Mock Rib Cuff approach always start with all slots in use to make hanging the hem easier later
-Transferring stitches
-Hanging the hem (hung hem) and how to identify where to start hanging stitch bars
-Hanging a specific neighbor stitch on one side for each newly added cylinder needle for the last row of the foot - before the toe to put that new needle immediately into work (prevents holes where new needles were added)
-Working a minimum one row after inserting any new cylinder needles (ensures stitches on open edge are all straight forward knit stitches making Kitchenering easier later)
-The easy No-Wrap Increase on the jar bottom segment.
-The project bottom of the cozy (mini toe) as it appears once finished and off the machine
-How I separate the scrap from sock yarn (when Ravel Cord wasn’t used)

CSM JAM JAR COVER (The Flat Bottom Mason Jar Cozy):
1) Load cylinder needles into each of all the cylinder slots on your machine. (I used a 72 slot cylinder.) Using your Cast-On of choice (I use my Universal Bonnet) with sock weight scrap yarn, add your buckle and stem weights (I use a stem weight with three total weight pucks), work 10-15 rows. Stop yarn carrier at 3 o’clock so that the next needle to knit is the needle directly after 3pm.
2) Add your Project Sock Yarn with a yarn tail of a couple inches. Add the Heel Spring. Reset the row counter. Knit 5 Rows. Stop yarn carrier at 7 o’clock. Place the cylinder spring on the spring rest.

Mock Rib setup in the 1 (empty slot) x3 (cylinder needles) pattern:
3) Starting from 3 o’clock remove the first cylinder needle directly after 3pm and transfer its stitch to its neighbor. Thereafter remove every fourth cylinder needle (in the 1x3 pattern), transferring each removed needle’s stitch - all the way around. This pattern from 3pm will look like one empty slot then three cylinder needles - repeated all the way around. The Yarn Carrier may still be around the 9 o’clock position from finishing the setup row. You can either move it now to the 3 o’clock position or simply continue from where it is to the next part of this step. Return the cylinder spring to the cylinder. Reset the row counter.
4) Knit 12 rows and stop yarn carrier at 6 o’clock.

HANG THE HEM:
5) Remove the buckle and all weights from the machine. To begin let’s identify the first knitted row that we worked by looking at the area where the yarn tail is still hanging from. The yarn tail at this point is a quick reference as to which line of stitch bars will be hung on the current needles. Note the next bar beside the yarn tail (next stitch bar on the same row) is our target first bar to hang on the cylinder. Now looking at the cylinder we note that the first slot after the 3 o’clock mark is a mock rib/empty slot. This tells us to hang that target stitch bar on the second cylinder needle (the next slot that has a cylinder needle). In fact now we will locate the second stitch bar and ALSO hang it on this same needle. THIS IS THE RULE: For ALL empty slots without a needle the next cylinder needle will hold TWO stitch bars. Otherwise all cylinder needles other than those referred to above, will have a single stitch bar transferred to it. Continue hanging the hem until you reach the 9 o’clock position on the cylinder. At this point we will locate the start yarn tail around the 3 o’clock position and proceed to work it into the machine by wrapping e-wrap style for about 5 needles. With the cylinder currently still not hung from after we stopped to the 3 o’clock position, now let’s finish this final pre-hung hem row by adding manual downward pressure on the knitting with your left hand while slowly turning the crank handle to move the yarn carrier from where it is still at 6 o’clock to the 3 o’clock position. Once the yarn carrier is at the 3 o’clock position, this next bit of knitting has been hung so there is more fabric there, change your downward manual pressure to using your left hand to pull under the machine on the prior knitting while you slowly advance the yarn carrier to about the 9 o’clock position. There will be more tension due to the extra hung stitches so it might have some resistance - be gentle but firm. Trim the extra length of the worked in yarn tail. Now continue hanging the hem until all has been hung. Note that usually the very last stitch before the 3 o’clock position can sometimes hide to ensure to locate it there to hang.

BODY OF THE PROJECT:
6) Return the Buckle and Stem Weights back to the machine. Reset the row counter. Work 53 rows and stop the yarn carrier at the 7 o’clock position.

SETUP FOR JAR BOTTOM:
7) Starting with the first empty cylinder slot after the 3 o’clock mark, insert a new cylinder needle into each of the empty mock rib slots, working from the 3 o’clock position all the way over to the 9 o’clock position (the back of the cylinder). Then starting at the same point, hang the specific neighbor stitch on each newly placed needle (hanging a neighbor stitch prevents a noticeable hole in the knitting). Move the Yarn Carrier to the 11 o’clock position. Now continue from the 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock positions (front of the machine) inserting a new cylinder needle into each empty slot and then hanging the neighbor stitch bar on the remaining needles. Move the Yarn Carrier to the 6 o’clock position.

Tip: By following this method all needles are reintroduced back into the machine without any unnecessary holes. Also that final row of knitting will be regular single knit stitches which will make it easier to Kitchener (close the toes) later.

SETUP FOR JAR BOTTOM DECREASE:
8) Raise all the cylinder needles on the back of the cylinder (from the cylinder half way marks) from 3 o’clock through to 9 o’clock. Move the Yarn Carrier to just past the 12 o’clock mark.
9) Lift 1 needle on the right. Crank towards 9pm. Stop just past 12pm.
10) Lift 1 needle on the left. Crank towards 3pm. Stop just past 12pm.
11) Repeat steps 9 and 10 until you’ve worked a total of FOUR needles on both sides* - the Yarn Carrier should be on the RIGHT.
Always make sure the yarn is under the latch of last needle lowered, latches open and knitting is low on the needles so that all stitches can be knitted.

JAR BOTTOM NO-WRAP INCREASE
12) Ensuring the yarn path and latch are behaving, lower 1 needle on the right. Crank towards 9pm. Stop just past 12pm.
13) Ensuring the yarn path and latch are behaving, lower 1 needle on the left. Crank towards 3pm. Stop just past 12pm.
14) Repeat Step 12 and 13 until all of the previously raised FOUR needles are down and back into work. Ensure that with lowering the 4th and last needle on the left you STOP then SLOWLY turn the crank and move the Yarn Carrier to the 6 o’clock position. This is essential as stopping at that position allows you to lower all the raised needles then work (the last bit of the final row) to the last cylinder needle before the 3 o’clock mark. Once you are at this point cut your project yarn near the yarn source giving you an extra long yarn tail you will use to close the toe (Kitchener) later.
15) Add a high contrast sock scrap yarn from the first needle after the 3 o’clock position and work two rows. Place four stitch markers on the final row of project yarn - one each on the stitches on each side of the halfway marks on the machine (mark the stitches on each side of the halfway point). By stitch marking these stitches it is easier to ensure no stitch gets left behind when closing the “toe” later off the machine. Continue working up to 15 rows of scrap yarn and either cut the scrap yarn to remove the project from the machine or add much more scrap to move the buckle to the even tube area of the scrap, so that a new project can be started at the 3 o’clock mark.

You’re done! You did it! Once the sock is off the machine you can close the toes of your socks by watching Kitchenering Video (included in the matching sock video). Want to watch just the Kitchener Video? See https://youtu.be/9VPfdHLcodA

HOW TO CREATE PROJECTS THAT FIT THEIR USE DEPENDS ON THE GAUGE!
I’ve made this project by using a tension setting 3 dial turns from the tightest setting on my 72 needle slot cylinder. The resulting knit fabric length and width was determined beforehand by adjusting machine settings, row counts and fiber I wanted to use. I generally prefer projects to have a gauge of approximately 11-13 rows per inch. To truly know how many rows YOU need on your machine, cylinder, yarn and settings YOU will need to test your knitting and adjust ahead of time. A true final project size can only be known once it has been left to rest, washed and dried. For tension setting info see https://ravel.me/karenramel/cgs

Looking for some specific CSM info and not finding it? Look it up by category at https://www.csmlove.com/index

LINKS and REFERENCES to VIDEOS:
-A whole page dedicated to Casting On: https://www.csmlove.com/csm-cast-on
-A video on How to Cast On https://youtu.be/EbKexOLtHI8
-Faux Russian Join (to seamlessly join two yarn tails) https://youtu.be/POuiD9-FOB4
-How I Kitchener from the Purl side (inside) https://youtu.be/9VPfdHLcodA

New to CSM / want to know where to start? https://www.csmlove.com/csm-start

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