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“The idea for this sweater came from a fascination with diagonal lines in knitwear and the almost carved, sculptural look that shaping takes on in Shaker rib. I also wanted to add playfulness to the garment while maximizing opportunities for those branching shaping lines, so a traditional set-in sleeve construction with deeply vented sides and an optional hi-lo hem felt like just the thing. The shifting rib details on each piece come together just under the armhole when seamed, adding a sense of convergence to the diverging lines.” — designer, Mary Weaver

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Construction

• The front is cast on with a smaller needle and a ribbed hem is worked.
• After completion of hem, larger needle is used to begin working in Shaker Rib pattern. After a short length, markers are placed to work diagonal shift detail, which continues to just before underarm.
• At the same time, gentle increases are worked to reach the full width of the body, after which selvedge is switched from slipped-stitch to garter stitch for seamed portion of sides.
• Stitches are bound off for underarm and the armholes are shaped with decreases.
• While working this section, neckline shaping will begin with binding off stitches for center front neck, then shaping the neckline with decreases. After dividing for the neck, both sides of the front will be worked concurrently with separate balls of yarn for the remainder of the piece.
• Shoulders are then shaped with a Sloped Bind Off.
• Back is worked similarly, with lower body worked as for front in classic version, or worked to a longer length with gentler increases before reaching full width of back for hi-lo version.
• Back neckline shaping begins later and is worked concurrently with both armhole and shoulder shaping.
• Sleeve begins with ribbed cuff worked on a smaller needle.
• Increases are worked to shape sleeve up to full width around elbow level.
• At the same time, markers are placed to work diagonal shift detail which continues to just before underarm.
• Stitches are bound off for underarm, lower sleeve cap is shaped with decreases , then the top of cap is shaped using the Sloped Bind Off.
• Second sleeve is worked in the same way.
• Body pieces are seamed together starting with shoulders, then sides of body from beginning of garter selvedge to underarm. Sleeves are seamed and set into the armholes.
• With smaller needle, stitches are picked up around neck opening and neckband is worked circularly.

Finished Dimensions

1 (2, 3, 4) (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11)

• 36½ (40½, 44½, 48½) (52½, 56½, 60½) (64½, 68½, 72½, 76½)” [92.5 (103, 113, 123) (133.5, 143.5, 153.5) (164, 174, 184, 194.5) cm] finished circumference at chest
• See Full Schematic for more sizing information
• Sample 1 is Size 3, Version I (Classic Hem) in Imbue Worsted Hummingbird. Modeled by Shelby (long hair), 5’7”/170 cm tall, with 5½”/14 cm positive ease.
• Sample 2 is Size 2, Version II (Hi-Lo Hem) in Shelter Foothills. Modeled by Heather (short hair), 5’4”/162.5 cm tall, with 7”/18 cm positive ease.

Need help picking a size? See our resource page on Selecting a Sweater Size

Yarn

Choose from Brooklyn Tweed worsted weight wool yarns:

Imbue Worsted — 104 yards (95 meters) per 50g skein

Version I: Classic Hem

• 11 (12, 13, 14) (16, 17, 18) (19, 20^, 22, 23) skeins
• Photographed in color Hummingbird

Version II: Hi-Lo Hem

• 12 (13, 14, 15) (17, 18, 19) (20^, 22, 23, 25) skeins

—OR—

Shelter — 140 yards (128 meters) per 50g skein

Version I: Classic Hem

• 8^ (9, 10, 11) (12, 12^, 13^) (15, 15, 16^, 17) skeins

Version II: Hi-Lo Hem

• 9 (10, 11, 11) (12^, 13, 14) (13, 16, 17, 18) skeins
• Photographed in color Foothills

The marked skein counts “^” are near or exact to the listed yardage; consider adding an extra skein.

Yardage

Version I: Classic Hem

• 1120 (1215, 1325, 1435) (1585, 1680, 1815) (1965, 2080, 2230, 2365) yards [1024 (1111, 1212, 1312) (1449, 1536, 1660) (1797, 1902, 2039, 2163) meters] of worsted weight wool yarn

Version II: Hi-Lo Hem

• 1185 (1290, 1405, 1520) (1675, 1780, 1925) (2080, 2205, 2360, 2505) yards [1084 (1180, 1285, 1390) (1532, 1628, 1760) (1902, 2016, 2158, 2291) meters] of worsted weight wool yarn

Gauge

• 16 stitches & 38 rows per 4”/10 cm in Shaker Rib Pattern on main needle, after blocking

Needles

Main needles

• Suggested Size: US 6 (4 mm)
• Straight or 24” (60 cm) circular needle(s)

Ribbing needles

• Suggested Size: US 5 (3.75 mm)
• One size smaller than main needle
• Straight or 24” (60 cm) circular needle(s)
• 16” (40 cm) circular needle for neckband

Tutorials for all special techniques listed below are included in the pattern:

• Video — Rib Cabled Cast On
• Video — Italian Tubular Cast On
• Video — Sloped Bind Off
• Blocking 101
• Seaming 101
• Video — Italian Tubular Bind Off

Skill Level
3 out of 5: Intermediate