20 May 2017
I took all of my patterns down yesterday and they will be offline for the meanwhile. I’ve found a number of them being posted without my permission on other sites. I am currently reviewing my thoughts on how I will deal with this.

28 August 2013
I have now made this a paid pattern. One kind Raveller let me know that someone had put the pattern onto a webpage without my permission. It is sad that people have to do these sorts of things.

By the way - yes this is similar to Wingspan, however there are a number of differences. When you knit it you will discover how different! ;)

This pattern uses short row shaping and assumes that you understand this technique. You can pick up the wraps as you go or not it is up to you.

The pattern is very forgiving and you can make changes to it to suit the yarn you choose or other considerations. In the garter stitch version if you make a mistake when counting your stitches between the wrap and turns, it will not matter too much.

You can start at any section and repeat it as many times as you like, just give consideration to how that will influence the final outcome. You can skip sections – for example sections 15 and 16 as they will be almost the same as section 17. You may ask why did I put them in – I guess I am being a math/knit nerd!!

You can create the slipped stitch edge or just knit the first stitch on the ‘toothed’ edge. The version in the image above began with four repeats of section 3, then two repeats of section 4 ending with one repeat of the rest of section 5 to 19. If you hover over the image the description should appear.

The hand spun yarn version (aqua/teal/cerise) comprised of two repeats of each section starting at section 1.

The Misti 2ply version worked 2 strands together is two repeats of each section beginning with section 1.

In the stocking stitch version I gave it an eyelet edge, but you could make it garter stitch or moss stitch (seed stitch). I also made a version in 8ply/DK and used 6mm needles and cast on 50 sts.

Have fun – and enjoy the finished shawl.

Notes:

Here are a few things to consider, depending on the yarn, the gauge and how many times you repeat each section you can end up with a very looooonnnnnggg shawl. So if you want a shorter shawl consider using each section once, or only repeating the first 3-4 sections and don’t repeat the rest.

Here is something I wrote in regards to a question about how big and how many repeats.

In answer to your question - think about it like this: the sections that have the least number sts between turns (section 1, 2 etc) are the deepest, while the others are more like a sliver. If you want a shawl that is deeper and fuller then repeat the first sections more times. You could for instance repeat section 1 - 3 times, section 2 - 3 times, section 3 - 3 times, then the next 3 sections twice and when you get to the thinner section only do them once. This way the shawl doesn’t get to be too long, but does have plenty of depth.

Happy to answer other questions.