One of the most researched ‘Medieval’ knit stockings would have to be the stockings worn by Eleanor of Toledo, a noblewoman who lived in Italy in the 1500’s and was buried in them at her death in 1565. She must have been dressed for burial either in a rush, or not by her regular maid, since one of them is inside out. Given the elaborate texture of the knitting, and the fact that both sides are very attractive, it is hard to tell which stocking is worn the proper way. Indeed, it may not have been an issue at the time, but can be an issue for modern researchers trying to reconstruct and understand this type of stocking. It should also be noted that the two stockings are not identical—the arrangement of the stitch panels are different, even if the panels themselves are consistent. This pattern gives the stitch arrangements for just one of the stockings. If a true reproduction of the burial stockings is needed, it is only necessary to switch out the welted pattern with the double moss stitch pattern in the chart. Once established, it is a simple and organic solution to printing out extra charts.
Gauge and materials can make quite a difference with these stockings. Eleanor was evidently not a large woman, and a stitch for stitch reproduction in the original gauge limits the wear ability for a lot of modern knitters. Gauge changes can make them wearable for a wider variety of modern history buffs and reenactors. Experimenting with needle size and yarn weight will go a long way in determining size. There are a lot of stitches in this stocking, so what seems even a minor change in gauge can make inches/centimeters worth of difference. Using the smaller size needles listed should fit adult S/M, and the larger size needles should produce L/XL The original fiber appears to have been reeled silk (not spun silk) dyed to a shade of red. Fine metal needles would have been used to knit the stockings in the round. There does not appear to be any flat knitting in this particular pair of stockings.
What follows in the pattern is a collection of charts and notes that should provide a guideline for producing a credible reproduction of the Eleanor of Toledo stockings. Simpler and more modern versions do exist for knitters who are not quite ready to tackle a complete reconstruction—not all of us are ready (or willing) to take on what the Italian workshop knitters had to do to make a pair of these stockings. This set of guidelines is not an attempt to document the stockings, or debate the construction elements. It is meant to provide some help in making a pair of amazing stockings that helps us reach out through time to connect with the knitters of hundreds of years ago. Enjoy the journey!