Styled on the traditional Fisherman’s Gansey, this cosy pullover is knitted in the round from the bottom up with only one tiny bit of sewing, and decorated with authentic knit and purl patterns on the yoke. The Sleeves are picked up and knit downwards, and an underarm gusset ensures freedom of movement and a good fit.

I have modified the construction a little. Firstly, I have used DK yarn at a normal gauge rather than Gansey yarn, because DK knits up much faster and most of us are not using our sweaters without a coat these days if it is foul weather! Secondly I have modified the neckline into a crew neck, dropping the front neck slightly to avoid a “bumfle” below the front neck.

The knit and purl patterns I have used are the Tree of Life in the centre front and back, Marriage Lines to either side of this, indicating the tos and fros of married life, and a diamond shape. Larger sizes repeat the marriage lines and diamond motifs.
Charts and written instructions are given for the patterns.

The pattern is in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL. Although it is designed for men, it will be fine for women as well although the sleeves may need to be shortened a bit.

I have used KDD Ooskit yarn but it can be knitted in any DK yarn that gives gauge. Solid colours will show off the patterns best, and heathered colours will also be fine. I would recommend avoiding yarns with neps, lumps or variegated colours as the knit and purl motifs will be lost.

Estimated yarn required for each size 1017(1210, 1303, 1459, 1582) {1759, 1881, 2022, 2205} metres 1114(1326, 1427, 1599, 1733) {1926, 2060, 2215, 2415} yards. Gauge 21sts and 30 rows to 10cm in stocking/stockinette stitch.

Before the invention of modern technical fabrics and waterproofs the Fisherman’s Gansey was the working garment for fisher folk all around the British Isles. Tradition tells us that each fishing village around the coast had its own pattern and you could recognise where someone came from by the patterns on their ganseys. The truth is of course more nuanced than that. I am sure that, as with knitters everywhere, the mothers, wives and sweethearts of the fishermen would invent their own patterns, borrow from one another and compete to make the most interesting or complicated garments for their loved ones.
Having said that, there are some motifs that tend to appear in certain locations. Motifs are classically created by use of knit and purl stitches but cables may also appear and in parts of the Outer Hebrides (Eriskay in particular) there are occasional lace patterns. I have drawn on the classic book by Michael Pearson when working on this design. I was given a copy many years ago; sadly it is now out of print but can be found online second hand.

The traditional gansey is knitted using a 5-ply worsted yarn using fine needles to make a tight fabric which repels water and keeps the wind out. The hem may either be split or ribbed in one piece. The garment is knitted in the round with minimal or no ease and has a gusset at the underarm to allow freedom of movement. The “seams” on the body and sleeve are marked with a column of purl stitches. The front and back yokes are knitted back and forth and are identical, with a saddle at the shoulder to make a rectangular neck hole. The sleeves are picked up and knitted downwards. There are several advantages to this style. Firstly, putting on your gansey in a hurry is easy as you don’t need to worry about front or back. The sleeves will wear more evenly if they are worn both ways round as the elbows don’t always stick out in the same place. The sleeves can also be pulled out and reknitted to prolong the life of the garment. The tight fit makes the garment less draughty. It would generally be worn with a scarf at the neck but nothing underneath.