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Halmoni Jacket
Inspired by an heirloom cardigan knit by my Korean grandmother, this traditional cabled jacket features an oversized saddle shoulder construction with handy pockets. Careful fitting and top down seamless construction are the personal touches I wanted to bring into this little piece of my family’s history. “Halmoni” means “grandmother” in Korean and is how we used to call her.
The thin squiggly cables, typically found in Korean or other Asian patterns, give a slightly more elegant look without taking away any of the coziness. Using the same large gauge as the inspirational piece, this comfy jacket promises to keep you warm and snuggly during the colder times of the year.
This design is knit top down using a saddle shoulder construction. It features all over cables, set-in pockets, and a zipped up front. The fit is oversized without being too gigantic: the name “jacket” comes from the fact that my family have always called this particular piece of knitwear a “jaquette” in swiss-french, which translates as a cardigan. It’s not necessarily designed to be an outer layer big enough to fit other bulky stuff underneath, although you are free to size up drastically to get more ease! Just note that the neckline might be wider than you you’d want then.
The garment is designed to be unisex, that’s why the sizing uses chest measurement (upper bust rather than full bust). This is to ensure a great fit around the shoulders, rather than a set amount of ease at the bust. There is detailed guidance in the pattern on how to select a size depending on your body type, and how to modify it if needed.
! The pattern is charted only !
To see different versions of the pattern knit in various yarns, sizes, fibers and colors, you can check out the testers version under the “Project” tab or the #HalmoniJacket on Instagram.
SIZES
1, 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) 7, 8, 9, 10
NOTE: Size 10 hasn’t been tested. If you wish to knit that size, please contact me via e-mail: if you agree to do so, I will send you the pattern for free for testing.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Suggested ease: 5 - 15 cm / 2 – 6” of positive ease at the chest (= upper bust and not full bust).
Chest circumference of the finished garment:
81, 90.5 (103, 111.5, 120, 128.5) 137, 148, 158.5, 167 cm /
32½, 36¼ (41¼, 44½, 48, 51½) 54¾, 59¼, 63½, 66¾”
To fit chest measurement (the chest is measured at the upper bust, not the full bust):
71, 80.5 (93, 101.5, 110, 118.5) 127, 138, 148.5, 157 cm /
28½, 32¼ (37¼, 40½, 44, 47½) 50¾, 55¼, 59½, 62¾”
I am 169 cm / 5’6” tall and my upper bust is 85 cm / 33½” (bust is 80 cm / 31½’’). I’m wearing a size 3 with 8 cm / 3.25” of positive ease at the chest (= upper bust), and 13 cm / 5.25” at the full bust.
The mustard sample is in size 7 is for my dad.
YARN USED IN SAMPLE
Cyrano by De Rerum Natura in colorway Doré (100% NSW merino, 150 meters / 164 yards per 100g)
Adelino by Roll up the Sheep in natural color (100% NSW wool, 129 meters / 141 yards per 100g)
YARN REQUIREMENTS
A buffer for swatching purposes is already accounted for in the following numbers.
860, 945 (1040, 1115, 1170, 1260) 1320, 1420, 1495, 1575 m
945, 1035 (1140, 1225, 1285, 1380) 1445, 1555, 1635, 1720 yards
6, 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) 9, 10, 10, 11 balls of suggested yarn.
GAUGE
16.5 sts by 21 rows = 10x10 cm / 4x4“ in cabled pattern knit flat, blocked.
Stockinette gauge for reference (do NOT use a stockinette swatch for this project, this is only to help you choose an appropriate yarn): 14 sts by 22 rows = 10x10 cm / 4x4“
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
Body needles (main body and sleeves): 5 mm / US 8 circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge, in various lengths.
Ribbing needles: 4 mm / US 6 circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge, in various lengths.
Notions:
Stitch markers, scissors, 1 unique marker, darning needle, measuring tape, waste yarn/stitch holders to put stitches on hold, sewing needle, sewing thread that matches your yarn color, 55 cm / 22” zipper, optional: 110 cm / 44” of ribbon (to hide the zipper)
SKILLS
- knitting flat and in the round
- cabling without a cable needle (video tutorial included)
- increasing/decreasing
- double knitting
- german short rows
- i-cord edging
- long tail cast on
- backwards loop cast on
- picking up stitches
- sewn bind off
- tubular or italian bind off on 2x2 ribbing (video tutorial provided)
- reading the knitting (identifying knit and purl stitches)
- reading charts for flat and in the round knitting
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- First published: December 2024
- Page created: December 16, 2024
- Last updated: March 2, 2025 …
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