About this pattern

This 15-page PDF Digital Download includes instructions and plenty of photos to help you make this Healing Potion!

If you’ve ever played any role-playing or adventure game, you’ll know all about healing potions! These will work for basically anything, to save your character from death from any manner of misadventure. Broken bones from an angry troll? It will work for that. Assaulted by a mob of angry villagers? Yep, that too. Accidentally stood in front of a powerful wizard’s fireball? Pop a healing potion!

I believe healing potions were first introduced in Dungeons & Dragons, but when I think of a healing potion, the ones I visualise are those from Blizzard’s Diablo 1. Have you ever seen a healing potion that isn’t red? Who decided that red is the colour of hit points, and blue is the colour of mana or magical power? I don’t know, but I’m not going to fight against what is so intuitively true!

I hope you enjoy making my Healing Potion!

Please tag me in your finished creations @quicksavecrochet, share your creations on Ravelry, and email me if you have any questions or issues with the pattern, quicksavecrochet@gmail.com.

Beginner-friendly – I have tried to include as many process photos as possible so that you should be able to follow on as a confident beginner with knowledge of basic stitches (and willingness to watch some YouTube videos!). Feel free to email me if something is not working for you, and I’ll be happy to help!

Yarn-under vs yarn-over crochet – In this pattern I used the “yarn-under” method of crochet, which is often used in amigurumi and gives a tighter weave, reducing the spaces between your stitches. I encourage you to also use the yarn-under technique – there are plenty of great YouTube tutorials available.

Invisible decrease – I always prefer to use the invisible decrease method of decreasing when making amigurumi, as there are no visible holes or bumps when decreasing using this method. In this method, you insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch, and then into the front loop of the next stitch (requires a bit of manoeuvring!) You will then yarn over (or under), draw the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (i.e. the front loops of the two stitches) – you then have two loops left on your hook. Yarn over and then draw the yarn through the two loops on your hook.

Gauge – Your gauge is not important when it comes to amigurumi, but it is important to keep your tension tight (or use a smaller hook) to make sure that stuffing does not show through your stitches.

Stitch markers – Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to keep track of where you are in the pattern, and move it each round. Make sure to count your stitches at the end of each round so you can catch any errors early!

Final size – Approximately 3 inches/7cm wide at the base and 5 inches/12cm tall.

Materials and Tools – Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow 8/8 Cotton DK-weight yarn in the following colours and approximate lengths: Christmas Red (86) - 38 metres, Dark Brown (08) - 25 metres, Light Brown (06) - 7.5 metres. I also used Lurex Lamé Gold (02) DK yarn - less than 5m. Hook: 3mm/Size D crochet hook (or hook required for your stitches to be tight enough and not show any stuffing); Tapestry needle (curved tip ideal); Stitch markers; Plastic poly pellets (50g); A nylon stocking; Fibrefill stuffing.

Disclaimer: This design is my creation and intellectual property. You may do what you want with your finished creations, giving credit to me as the designer, but please do not recreate, distribute, or sell this pattern. I have endeavoured to test this pattern but cannot guarantee that it is entirely free of typos, errors or inaccuracies. The final product is not guaranteed, and no liability is accepted for variation between this pattern and your own finished project. Note that the product made from this pattern is not intended to be used as a toy, and small parts used in this pattern may present a choking risk. No liability is accepted for any injuries or damages that may occur.