The MELIDES dress is the perfect summer dress with a twist. It can be worn as a deep V-neck shirtdress or as a square-neck pinafore dress.

Everything in this dress takes inspiration from sewing. The darts serve both a functional and a formal purpose, as they conceal the shaping of the garment while at the same time elongating the silhouette and accentuating natural body curves. At the suggested gauge, the chosen yarn creates a light, slightly sheer fabric with a fluid drape, resembling a silk charmeuse. Polished details like the button bands and the hem contribute to the illusion – is it really a hand-knit piece?

Handmade pieces can and should offer more than retail, that’s why this dress is a tailored garment. The intended ease is 0 cm (0”) from bust to hip, and the pattern guides the knitter in putting together the perfect fit for their unique body size and shape. #tailoredknitting

CONSTRUCTION

This garment is knit flat in one piece, in stockinette stitch. The work starts at the waist with a provisional cast-on. First, the bodice is knit from the waist up. In its lower section, increases are worked along four dart lines to create a tailored fit. At the underarm, the work is divided in upper front and back pieces. These are worked separately, shaped using decreases, and grafted at the top. Once the bodice is done, the cast-on stitches are picked up to work the waist detailing. The skirt is worked from the waist down while continuing the dart lines and tailored shaping from the bodice, finishing with a hem in linen stitch. The button bands and other I-cord finishes are added at the end.

NEW TO VERSION 2.0

This design was first launched in August 2022 and was updated in October 2024. Changes have been done to accommodate more sizes and simplify the knitting process. The calculator has been replaced with compact worksheets within the pattern for ease of use.

KNITTING LEVEL

Intermediate to advanced. The pattern includes detailed step-by-step instructions, explains the used techniques in depth and includes links to video tutorials.

Most techniques used are advanced beginner level. However, the multiple customization options make it more appropriate for seasoned knitters. It’s not well suited as a first garment project.

TECHNIQUES:
Stockinette stitch, linen stitch, RS/WS increases (M1R, M1L, M1RP, M1LP), RS/WS decreases (K2tog, K2togTBL, P2tog, SSK, SSP), yarn over (YO), pick up and knit (PUK), provisional cast-on (PCO), regular bind-off, Italian bind-off, I-cord, grafting.

AVAILABLE SIZES

Tailored sizes are available for bust circumferences 75 - 155 cm (30 - 62’’).

GAUGE

in 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)
Main fabric: 25 sts x 31 R in stockinette stitch

I cannot stress enough the importance of gauge here. Make sure to read the setup section carefully. The pattern provides a ton of info to make sure you’ll nail it!

SUGGESTED YARN

Knitting for Olive Pure Silk (250 m / 50 g) in copper,
ca. 5-12 balls
Follow the instructions in the pattern to calculate yardage for your unique size.

HABERDASHERY

16-26x 9 mm (3/8’’) mother-of-pearl buttons
by Ma Fabrique de Boutons
Follow the instructions in the pattern to calculate the number of buttons for your desired dress length.

NEEDLES AND NOTIONS

Use the necessary needle sizes to get the given gauge.
You’ll need different sizes circular needles. Shorties or DPNs might come in handy.

For the main fabric, I used 3 mm (US 2.5) needles. For the I-cord edges, I used 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles. You’ll also need a crochet hook to reinforce the button band. I used a 3.5 mm (US 3) hook, but the correct size might vary depending on your crochet tension.

8+ stitch markers, 25+ removable stitch markers,
2+ long flexible stitch holders, 4+ safety pin stitch holders, tapestry needle, sewing needle, measuring tape (+ ideally a second person and/or a mirror for measuring).

Need help at any point? Make sure to check the last pattern pages for tips, abbreviations, tutorials, and a contact