This fun-to-crochet popover top is designed to be worn over a lightweight garment. It boasts directional, easy hand-weaving over most of the front and back. It is seamed at the shoulders and edged. We used 3 vintage shell buttons to close the tabard at each side (seamed only at shoulders). Use two different, hefty yarns, with the weaving strand slightly heavier than the base yarn. Crochet filet is endlessly adaptable. So, if you’re adventurous, you might make the tabard with DK or worsted weight yarns, using smaller hooks and working to measurements given in the schematic. In all cases, do not skip front and back crew neckline shaping.

Materials: Yarn A, 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls Noro “Haunui” (200 grams, 400 meters), or any solid color Aran weight wool; Yarn B, c. 125 yds Noro “Bachi” or “Rikka” (or other chunky-weight wool yarn, though variegated is probably best), place markers.

Tools: Size I (5.5mm) crochet hook (or size required to achieve gauge)

Gauge: 14 DC to 4 inches

Finished Measurements:

Chest circumference: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58)”

Back length at shoulder: 17 (18, 20, 22, 24, 25)”

Armhole depth: 8.5 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12.5)”

Designer Notes:

When weaving, don’t pull. Practice a bit so that the yarn lies flat without puckering or bunching. When turning a corner, keep filet squares lined up; use the same techniques for each row of squares (​i​​I​.e., if you entered the mesh from, say, the top of a square, do the same for every similar square. Half will be entered from top and half from bottom. This is especially important when turning from one row to the next. Chart shows the staggered weaving pattern.

Weaving can be done with a big-eyed tapestry or yarn needle. But we found it helpful to use a for-the-purpose weaving tool (wooden needle), available at craft stores or Etsy.com.

When weaving, it is possible that every second row has an extra square at one end. This is not an error. Just keep the lacing pattern regular and uniform.

You easily might add extra length to the body pieces, or work plain filet sleeves, once the shoulders have been joined. But you will need more of Yarn A.

Instructions have been written so that you can work from inches rather than from rows; row gauges vary considerably from one crocheter to another. Try to keep rectangles open and even throughout the piece