I’m currently having trouble paying through Ravelry, my patterns can be purchased on Boosty (see the link in Source)On this site you pay for the post, it contains a PDF file with the English version of the pattern. I will also send you the pattern via Ravelry so that it will be saved in your library throughout the day. Sorry for the temporary convenience

ABOUT THE PATTERN
One evening I was swatching some slip-stitch textured patterns in plushy emerald-green yarn, while in the background my teenage daughters were re-watching the first Twilight movie. Next morning I looked at my swatches and realized I was unconsciously trying to replicate the gorgeous rolling hills covered with pine forests and swirls of mist that I saw in the movie (filmed in Oregon, hence the pattern name).
After finishing the sweater, I had to make a matching cardigan pattern! And thanks to creativity of one of my testers, a two-color version of the print was born!
This elongated, thin but warm cardigan is exactly what you need for a walk in the fall in a forest or urban jungle.

CONSTRUCTION
The yoke is knit flat sideways in garter stitch with short rows for shaping and slip-stitch print (can also be done in a contrast color). After that, selvedge edge stitches are picked up and back is raised for a better fit (using more short rows). Sleeves are separated from the body, casting on extra stitches in the underarms.
Body is worked top-down flat with optional horizontal bust darts (starting with adult size 3) and optional waist shaping (starting with child size 8-9 years).
Sleeves are knit top-down in the round with two shaping options: slightly tapered, or bishop-style.
Hem and cuffs are worked sideways in garter stitch with slip-stitch print to mimic the yoke. Finally, the cardigan is trimmed with garter stitch button-bands and neckband with an I-cord along all edges.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS

Yarn: sport-weight to DK wool (can be 250-350m/270-380yds per 100g/3.5oz, as long as it gives gauge).
There is a pattern modification for print in one or multiple contrast colors.
I do NOT recommend using 100% superwash merino or >50% alpaca as those might sag considerably in wear.
Choose yarns with little to no halo to best show off the print. You can use a solid / tonal, but I would avoid highly variegated as it will “muddy” the print.
The sample was knit out of:
• MC – hand-dyed sock yarn from my LYS @zolotaianit (75% merino, 25% nylon; 420m/460yds per 100g/3.5oz) held together with Camelot kid-mohair (67% mohair, 30% nylon, 3% wool; 1300m/1420 yds per 100g/3.5oz)
• CC – MadelineTosh ‘Tosh Merino Light’, colorway Flashdance
Yardages per size are given in the Sizing and Yardage table below.

Needles:
• Yoke: 3.5mm/US4 (or size to get garter gauge) straights or circulars on a 60-100cm/24-40” cable for the yoke and button-bands + DPNs for Cuffs and Hem;
• Stockinette: 3.75mm/US5 (or size to get stockinette gauge) circulars on a 60-100cm/24-40” cable, depending on the size worked + DPNs for the sleeves, if you prefer them to magic loop (for magic loop you may need 0.25mm / 1 US size larger needles);
• Trimming: 3mm/US2.5 circulars on a 60-100cm/24-40” cable for button-bands and DPNs for I-cords.

Notions: waste yarn, cable needle (optional), stitch markers, row counter, tape measure, tapestry needle, scissors; buttons (optional)

GAUGE (PER 1010CM/ 44” AFTER WET-BLOCKING)
• Stockinette: 20 stitches by 30 rows on your largest needles;
• Garter stitch: 24 stitches by 40 rows (20 garter ridges) – on slightly smaller needles.

TECHNIQUES
• Classic long-tail cast on, provisional cast on and backwards loop cast on
• Working in garter stitch and stockinette flat and stockinette in the round
• Reading charted instructions (optional)
• Basic cabling: left and right twists (LT and RT)
• Decreases: knit 2 together (k2tog) and slip-slip-knit (ssk)
• Increases – M1L, M1R
• Traditional bind-off
• I-cord bind off on 3 sts
• German short-rows