About this pattern

Overshot weaving is an American artform of the Appalachian region of the United States. Overshot’s geometry may be familiar because of its ubiquity in coverlet weaving in that area in the 18th century. Its origins go even further back, its motifs appearing in northern Europe, the Phillipines and ancient Persia.

Overshot is a weave structure, woven on four harness looms. It is typically composed of a plain colored, cotton or linen warp (the threads held under tension on the loom) and a colorful, woolen weft (the floating yarn, wound onto a bobbin and passed through alternating warp threads). The warp threads are tied onto the loom in a sequence that allows for floating, woolen wefts to create the stunning, optical effects that lend overshot its distinctive patterning.

This pattern is an adaptation of one of these historic weave drafts. Rather than using the draft to thread a loom it is read as a knitting chart.

I was invited to design this pattern for one of my all time, favorite yarn stores, Ritual Dyes, who generously supported me through the design process and supplied the absolutely wonderful yarn! This project was made for their Fall Equinox pattern release as a part of a kit. The kit includes the printed pattern, the yarn and a little gift, all housed within a beautiful, hand screen printed bag. Find the kit, while they last, here:
https://ritualdyes.com/products/limited-edition-fall-equinox-2022-offering

Materials

Ritual Dyes Marona (DK weight / custom-milled 3-ply; 100% Cormo non-superwash wool; 225 m / 250 yds per 100g / 3½ oz). Two skeins are used for this project. For the kit we chose, Obsidian and Hazelnut

Needles

Only one needle size is given for this pattern. If it is necessary to size down for the rib or to size up for the colorwork, please do so. The samples pictured were knit on size #4 US - 3.5mm needles.

This pattern is worked using circular needles and the magic loop method. 32” or 40” needles can be used depending on personal preference. Keeping the stitches on a long cabled, circular needle makes for keeping better tension during the colorwork portion of the tam. If it is more comfortable to use a short cabled needle or double pointed needles for the brim and/or the crown please do so but remain mindful of tensioning.

Notes

This pattern is worked in two contrasting colors. One color will be worked primarily in knit stitches (stockinette stitch) and the other color will be worked primarily in purl stitches (reverse stockinette). These alternating stitches are what give the pattern its clean lines, texture and dimension. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry two yarns under tension at once! There are many ways to do this: Some knitters carry one yarn in the left hand and one in the right hand at the same time. Others may carry the purling yarn under tension and pick up the knitting yarn with left thumb and middle finger when it’s needed. Please find the most comfortable method for personal efficiency. There is no single correct way.

There are two versions charted for this pattern, each the inversion of the other. One has the dark color as the dominant colorway (Chart A), and the other has the light color as the dominant colorway (Chart B). Before you begin, choose your chart! Only one chart will be worked.

Italian tubular cast on is employed in this pattern for its elasticity and it is necessary for the pick up row where the hat band is folded and knit to itself. If a different cast on method is preferred, it may be used as long as it is sufficiently stretchy. Traditional long tail cast is not suitable for this project.