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The author notes that you should go down a needle size or two from the size expected for this weight of yarn (from 4.5mm/US7 to 4mm/US6 is recommended).Brioche stitch is a bit tricky in this regard as the resulting fabric will be determined by how you YO and tension your knitting.

Also note that the needle used MUST be a circular needle because the pattern WILL NOT work on regular straight needles.

Tension:

Generally you will want to go down a size or two from the needles expected for this weight of yarn (from 4.5mm/US7 to 4mm/US6, or smaller if you want a tighter fabric). The tension I am using yields a 6-inch wide scarf on 4mm/US6 needles, in the brioche stitch pattern. I am usually an average knitter when using Cascade 220; ie. I get the tension listed on the band which is 5 stitches per inch with a 4.5mm/US7 needle in stocking stitch (that may help you to decide which needles to try]).

Brioche stitch is a bit tricky in this regard as the resulting fabric will be determined by how you YO and tension your knitting.

Materials:

• Cascade 220, one skein (100g/220yds) in each colour in my pattern, MC is the dark colour - col 4006, CC is the lighter colour - col 8400imilar weight yarn; I have only worked this pattern in wool, so use your discretion if you choose another fibre).
• 4mm/US6 circular needle (it MUST be a circular needle, the pattern won’t work on regular straight needles), about 40-60cm is fine; you can also use double-pointed needles (but I, personally, would shove the stitches off the wrong end regularly, so I don’t really recommend double points).
• Tapestry needle for darning in ends

Skill-level • Intermediate to Advanced:
knit, purl, YO, being able to recognize knit and purl stitches in fabric is essential, working with several strands/colours at a time.

Abbreviations:

CO = cast on
K = knit
P = purl
Sl1 = slip one stitch
Sl1wyf = slip first stitch with working yarn at front of work
Sl1wyb = slip first stitch with working yarn at back of work
Sl1wyo = slip next stitch while wrapping working yarn as if to knit, but don’t knit the stitch… slide it and the resulting yo to the right needle simultaneously
yb = working yarn to back of work
K1incyo = knit one including the corresponding yarn over in other colour
P1incyo = purl one including the corresponding yarn over in other colour
st(s) = stitch(es)
BO = bind off
DON’T TURN = slide your needle from right to left back to restart at beginning of row just worked with next colour
TURN = turn your work

PATTERN:
CO 23 stitches with MC.
Knit one row. Join CC.

Set-up Row for Brioche Pattern:
Sl1, sl1wyo, p1 to last 2 sts, sl1wyo, k1.
DON’T TURN.

Even though you will be working each row twice (once per colour) each row is numbered separately, with the colour you will be using noted in brackets. Note when to turn the work or not.

Brioche Pattern Rows:
MC 1. P1, k1incyo, sl1wyo to last 2 sts, k1incyo, sl1.
TURN.
CC 2. Sl1wyf, yb, sl1wyo, k1incyo to last 2 sts, sl1wyo, p1.
DON’T TURN.
MC 3. K1, p1incyo, slwyo to last 2 sts, p1incyo, sl1.
TURN.
CC 4. Sl1wyb, sl1wyo, p1incyo to last 2 sts, sl1wyo, k1.
DON’T TURN.

Repeat these four rows until scarf is desired length. BO knitwise with MC after a row 2 or 4. note, I am still debating about whether there should be a knit row before the bindoff… I will experiment with that and edit the pattern -- let me know if you finish before I do and what you decide!.

Darn in ends, block, enjoy!

All patterns are © Lori Law, Oceanwind Knits. For personal use only. Please do not copy or redistribute.