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This is a top down sock with traditional heel flap. Always change needle size to get gauge. I used my own hand-dyed yarn for this pattern, but any fingering weight sock yarn will work. This sock is worked with magic loop, 1st needle will be front of foot/leg and 2nd needle will be back of foot/leg and heel. The cables on this sock look more complicated than they are, there are both charted and written instructions for cables.