Sand Dollar is really 2 caps playing a variation on a theme, dreamt up by a beach-going fairy godmother in training on a dreary winter day.

Baby Sand Dollar was conceived (for a friend’s baby, naturally) as a cross between a tam and a newsie cap. It’s knitted from the top down and can be increased or decreased by a factor of 30 sts depending on gauge (which needless to say is not important here) or size of baby’s head in question. You could knit it for a boy or a girl depending on the yarn you use. Pair with a knitted cardigan, and we’re talking serious cuteness.

But why let the babies have all the fun? Knit this baby up in a more blingy yarn or get happy with beads, and you can have your own fairy hat. Since the pattern is essentially modular, based on yarnover increases over the sand dollar “arms,” you can size it up as much as you like for more of a slouchy look, and you can stiffen the double-knit peak with interfacing or plastic to balance out the extra width. So go ahead, break out the wands and the fairy dust, and don’t be afraid to play.

SIZE
Baby and Adult, can be modified to suit size of baby/adult.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Baby version: 6.5 inches widest diameter, 4 inch opening diameter, brim 3.5 inches at widest point by 1.5 inches in length.
Adult version: 10 inches widest diameter, 6.5 inch opening diameter, brim 6.5 inches at widest point by 2.5 inches length.

MATERIALS

Baby version: Cascade Cherub DK 55% nylon/45% acrylic; 180 yd/165 m per 50g skein/ color: Jade; 1 skein
Adult version: Cascade Sunseeker 47% cotton/48% acrylic/5% metallic; 237 yd/217 m per 100g skein; color: Pale Blue; 1 skein

1 set US #7-8/4.5-5 mm extra-long double-point needles (circulars work as well)

GAUGE

24 sts/24 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch for both versions
Note: gauge is not important in this project.

PATTERN NOTES

Abbreviations:
Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
yo = yarn over
k2tog/k3tog = knit 2 together/knit 3 together
ssk = slip 2 stitches knitwise then knit together
m1 = increase by pulling up stitch from previous row and knitting
RS/WS = right side/wrong side

Initial round might be easier if worked like an I-cord rather than immediately dividing 5 sts onto dpns.

I divided the hat into sections, i.e. “arms,” “arm tapers,” “hat body increases,” “brim.” Each of these sections can be modified in size individually. For example, more arm rounds and/or hat body increases to make a floppier hat, or fewer decrease rounds for a wider opening/larger head. I made my stitch counts at widest circumference and hatband divisible by 15 to please my OCD, but it’s not strictly necessary.

If modifying your brim: working an even number of repeats of rows 1-6 will give you the adult version of rows 7-8, while an odd number will give you the baby version. Working an even number of repeats of rows 7-8 will take you to the row 9 from the same version, while an odd number of repeats will get you the opposite version’s row 9. For the row 9 repeats, once you get to somewhere between 2 and 8 sts remaining, if it looks like a smooth curve, go ahead and break yarn and draw through.