The Semper Sweater is my take on a classic raglan jumper. There is nothing fancy about it but it has quickly become my go-to piece of clothing when I don’t want to think about what I want to wear. Somehow, though, I always want to wear this sweater. In Latin, ‘semper’ means ‘always’, so the name seemed fitting.

The Sweater itself is worked top-down and in the round using a combination of fingering- and lace-weight yarns, or a single strand of a DK-weight yarn, if you prefer to work with just one yarn at a time. It starts with a double-folded collar and then is shaped with some German short rows and raglan shaping. Once the yoke is finished, you will leave the sleeves to rest and work the body to your desired length. You will then pick up the stitches for the sleeves and work them with some gentle decreases to create a slight taper. I recommend that you finish the body and sleeves with tubular cast-offs, but you can use your preferred method.

An extensive guide to finding good yarns for this project and substituting one yarn for another can be downloaded form my website here: https://tkpg.squarespace.com/blog/a-beginners-guide-to-bu...

The off-white sample is Size D and the sage green sample is Size E.

Materials & Fit

Sizing and ease: The Semper Sweater has about 5-10 cm (2-4 in) positive ease for sizes A-H, and 5-15 cm (2-6 in) positive ease for sizes I-K. If you would like a closer fitting or looser garment, size up or down accordingly. The sizes are as follows:

Size: A (B) C (D) E, (F) G (H) I (J) K
Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95) 95-100, (100-105) 105-110 (110-115) 115-125 (125-135) 135-145
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5) 37.5-39.3, (39.3-41.3) 41.3-43.3 (43.3-45.3) 45.3-49.2 (49.2-53.1) 53.1-57
Actual circumference of garment (cm): 85 (90) 95 (100) 105, (110) 115 (120) 130(140) 150
Actual circumference of garment (in): 33.5 (35.5) 37.5 (39.3) 41.3, (43.3) 45.3 (47.3) 51.2 (55.1) 59

Notions: 3.5-mm US 416-in] cord) and 4.5 mm (US 7) (40-, 60-, 80-, and/or 100-cm (16-, 24-, 32-, and/or 40-in) cord; the 100-cm (40in) cord may not be useful for all sizes but I would recommend it if you are using the magic loop method for, say, the sleeves) circular needles.

You will also need 8 stitch markers (one of which should be in a contrasting colour to indicate the beginning of the round and have a clip-on fastening), a darning needle, and some spare needles/scrap yarn/stitch holders where the stitches of the sleeves will rest.

Tension: 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 cm (4 in) stocking stitch on 4.5 mm US 7 needles. Make sure to wash and block your swatch for the most accurate results. Please note that I have tighter-than-average row gauge, but this isn’t too important in this pattern. You may wish to go up or down a needle size, working in 0.25/0.5 mm (.5/1 US needle size) increments as needed to meet gauge.

Yarn: Approximately 4 (4) 4 (4) 5, (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 7 skeins, or 1,000 (1,000) 1,000 (1,000) 1,250, (1,250) 1,250 (1,500) 1,500 (1,500) 1,750 m (or 1,092 (1,092) 1,092 (1,092) 1,365 (1,365) 1,365 (1,638) 1,638 (1,638) 1,911 yds), of Knitting for Olive Merino (100% merino; 50 g = 250 m 273 yds) and 4 (4) 5 (5) 5, (5) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 skeins, or 900 (900) 1,125 (1,125) 1,125, (1,125) 1,350 (1,350) 1,350 (1,575) 1,575 m (or 984 (984) 1,230 (1,230) 1,230, (1,230) 1,476 (1,476) 1,476 (1,722) 1,722 yds), of Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair (70% mohair; 30% silk; 25 g = 225 m 246 yds), held together throughout (i.e., you hold the two yarns together as you knit with them).

Where possible, buy more yarn than you need to avoid issues with dye lots. A list of alternatives to suit a range of budgets and preferences can be found just below.

Yarn alternatives: Any combination of fingering- and lace-weight yarns or DK-weight yarn suitable for 3.5-4.5 mm (US 4-7) needles should work well. Where possible, I would recommend sticking with a wool based-yarn, as alpaca- or cotton- based yarns tend to stretch over time with washing and wear. If you are using such fibres, I would perhaps recommend going down a size to accommodate any changes to the shape of your Semper Sweater over time.

Good alternatives for the Knitting for Olive Merino include Filcolana Arwetta Classic (80% superwash merino 20% nylon; 50 g = 210 m / 230 yds), Along Avec Anna Merino (100% superwash merino; 50 g = 200 m / 218 yds), Sandnes Garn Sunday (100% merino; 50 g = 235 m / 257 yds), Sandnes Garn Tynn Peer Gynt (100% Norwegian wool; 50 g = 205 m /224 yrds), and Drops Flora (65% Wool, 35% Alpaca; 50 g = 210 m / 230 yds).

Good alternatives for the Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair include Drops Kid-Silk (75% mohair, 25% silk; 25 g = 210 m / 230 yds), Sandnes Garn Tynn Silk Mohair (57% mohair, 15% wool and 28% silk; 25 g = 212m / 232 yds), Along Avec Anna Silk Mohair (72% mohair, 28% silk; 25 g = 210 m / 230 yds), and CaMaRose Midnatssol (54% baby alpaca, 36% tencel, 10% merino wool; 25 g = 200 m / 219 yds). I have written an extensive mohair comparison post on my blog, reviewing lots of different products, should you want a different alternative to the Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair. Please note that I would not recommend an alpaca-based mohair alternative, with the exception of CaMaRose Midnatssol, as in my experience they are rarely – if ever – a true lace-weight yarn.

Good DK-weight options include West Yorkshire Spinners WYS Elements (60% TENCEL™ Lyocell 40%, Falkland Islands Wool; 50g = 122m 122yd, Sandnes Garn Double Sunday (100% merino; 50g = 108 m / 118 yrds), and Sandnes Garn Peer Gynt (100% Norwegian wool; 50g = 91 m / 100 yrds).

Techniques include a double-folded collar, German short rows, raglan shaping with leaning increases, leaning decreases, and (optional) tubular cast-offs.

The Semper Sweater has been professionally tech edited and tested by almost 30 knitters, but should you find an issue please email me at the.knit.purl.girl2020@gmail.com