01/01/23 MAJOR UPDATE AND OVERHAUL
New version includes greater clarification of some instructions, and a whole new section relating to getting the correct fit when making socks for someone else, whose hand you may not have access to, for determining where to begin the gusset increases.

Love socks with the heel-flap and gusset construction? Hate working cuff down?

This is the sock for you!

I’ve always been a fan of the traditional sock construction, with a heel-flap, a beautiful, wedge-shaped heel turn, and then a gusset for perfect shaping on the arch of your foot. I’ve almost always knitted them cuff down too.

Until now, that is…

I wanted to work on a way of making socks that look identical to those time-honoured, immortal socks, but are instead, worked toe-up. And this is the result.

This is not really a sock pattern. It is rather a formula, or to use a friendlier word, a recipe that you can use to create whatever size socks you like. You can adapt the recipe to deal with a variety of foot sizes and yarn/needle/knitter combinations, and you should get the perfect fit every time.

The heel turn is made using German Short Rows, as an alternative to the more common Wrap and Turn. If you’ve never worked German Short Rows (GSRs) before, you have nothing to worry about. They are so easy, totally invisible, and you are sure to click with them in no time at all!

In making these socks, you will need to do a bit of basic maths. Don’t panic - none of it is hard, and it’s all based around one number. That number is your base number for how many stitches you have in each round when you normally knit a sock.

SPECIAL FEATURES:
No more yarn chicken! These socks are worked toe-up, as the name suggests, so you can keep going until you have used all your available yarn.

Use ANY yarn weight and needle combo you choose! This recipe will work for fingering weight, DK, Aran, Worsted… You name it, you can make these socks in any gauge you like. The maths will always work.

No-hole gussets! How these heel flaps are finished will guarantee you will have no pesky holes whatsoever in that hard-to-manage top corner.

Gusset construction for a comfortable fit! If you have a high instep, you may struggle with a short-row heel, but don’t like the idea of working cuff down. This sock eliminates both of those problems.

No wrap-and-turn! German short rows do the job so much better - they are easier to work, and totally invisible, and there are no wraps to worry about picking up later.

(I have a request - please share the awareness of this pattern as much as you like, but NOT the contents. I have put a lot of time and effort into perfecting this, and I’ve kept the price really low, so I’d really appreciate it if you kept the actual recipe only for those who have purchased their own copy. Thank you for your understanding.)

NB: A French-language edition of an earlier (and slightly reduced) version of this pattern is available by contacting me directly. Email nathan@sockmatician if you would like me to send it to you.