The Soldotna Crop is a top-down circular yoke sweater that features stranded colorwork. I designed this sweater with Portland’s unpredictable spring weather in mind. I look forward to layering this little top over linen dresses as well high-waisted skirts and pants. The design can easily be lengthened if crops aren’t your style, instructions are included in the pattern. This design is simple enough for an adventurous beginner, yet still engaging for advanced knitters. Best of all, the cropped length and sleeveless style make this a super quick and gratifying project. The body length is easily adjustable, keep in mind changes will alter the yardage required.

Needle/gauge note! It is common to require different needle sizes to achieve the same gauge in stockinette, colorwork and short rows (as they are worked flat). Many knitters need larger needles for their colorwork or else it can end up quite tight and cause puckering at the neckline. Personally I have the opposite issue and my colorwork is looser, so I often go down a needle size there. The point of this note is that swatching is important in determining the needle size you should use, and it is totally okay and normal if you require a size that is different than what the pattern calls for!

MATERIALS
Yarn:
House of a la Mode
House Tweed DK
85% Superwash Merino, 15% Donegal Nap
231 yards [211 m]/100 grams

1(2,3,4,5,6){7,8,9,10}
Finished circumference at bust:
32.75 (36.5, 40, 44.5, 48, 52.5) {56, 59.75, 64, 67.75} ”
83 (92.5, 101.5, 113, 122, 133.5) {142, 152, 162.5, 172} cm

Colors used in sample:
C1: Moto (brown)
C2: Palm (light teal)
C3: Aloe (deep teal)
C4: Peach Halo (cream/ peach variegated)

Needles (suggested sizes)
Main: US 5 [3.75 mm]
RIbbing: US 3 [3.5 mm]

Gauge:
22 sts and 26 rounds over 4” [10 cm] after blocking with main needle in colorwork pattern.

You should always knit your swatch the same way that the pattern is knit—in this case, in the round. Block your swatch as you will your finished garment and allow it to dry fully before measuring.

Notions:
stitch markers, scrap yarn, darning needle

Yardage: Note that yardage is estimated and may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.
C1: 202 (218, 250, 273, 296, 327) {351, 374, 405, 429} yards 185 (200, 228.5, 250, 271, 299.5) {321, 342.5, 371, 393} m C2: 177 (190.5, 218, 238, 258.5, 286) {306, 326.5, 354, 374} yards
162 (174, 199, 218, 236.5, 261) {280, 298.5, 323.5, 342} m C3: 62.5 (67.5, 77, 84, 91.5, 101) {108, 115.5, 125, 132} yards 57 (61.5, 70.5, 77, 83.5, 92) {99, 105.5, 114, 121} m
C4: 78 (84, 96, 105, 114, 126) {135, 144, 156, 165} yards 71.5 (77, 88, 96, 104.5, 115.5) {123.5, 132, 143, 151} m

Sizes:
Measurements given are for the finished garment. This sweater is designed to fit with 1-4.5” 2.5-11.5 cm of positive ease at the bust and 1” 2.5 cm of positive ease at the upper arm.
See size chart on page 5 for complete fit details.
Sample pictured is a size 3 on a model with a 36” 91.5 cm bust, worn with 4” 10 cm of positive ease.

1(2,3,4,5,6){7,8,9,10}
Finished circumference at bust:
32.75 (36.5, 40, 44.5, 48, 52.5) {56, 59.75, 64, 67.75} ”
83 (92.5, 101.5, 113, 122, 133.5) {142, 152, 162.5, 172} cm
Finished sleeve circumference at upper arm:
11 (11, 11.75, 13, 14.5, 16) {18.25, 19.75, 20.5, 21}”
28 (28, 30, 33, 37, 40.5) {46.5, 50, 51.5, 53.5} cm