SOLMU means “knot” in Finnish. I was inspired by this regional costume from the Netherlands called “ broenbonte kraplap” . I loved the concept right away: practical, timeless and emphasizing freedom of wear. The piece is easy to layer and can be worn all year long. I wanted to play with the idea of a closed-up front while retaining the ability to open or close the garment, or adjust it as needed.

SOLMU is knitted flat from bottom to top in two separate pieces (front and back). These two pieces are then seamed together at the shoulder and stitches are picked up around the neckline to form the collar. Finally-and that’s probably the most singular part of this vest-two straps are knitted in double stockinette and later seamed at the armholes, so the vest can be fastened at the waist.

Note that both front and back pieces are not designed to be fully covering your bust, but rather hit a bit before your arm scye.

SIZES

1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7

Finished Measurements

Bust width (including straps): 32 (36) 40 (44) 48 (52) 56 cm / 12.5 (14) 15.5 (17.5) 19 (20.5) 22”

Total length (from bottom of neckline to hem): 44 (44) 46 (49) 49 (52) 52 cm / 17.5 (17.5) 18 (19) 19 (20.5) 20.5”

Armhole length: 33.5 (33.5) 35.5 (37.5) 38.5 (39.5) 40.5 cm / 13 (13) 14 (14.5) 15 (15.5) 16”

Length (from underarm to hem): 16.5 (16.5) 16.5 (17.5) 17.5 (18.5) 18.5 cm / 6.5 (6.5) 6.5 (7) 7 (7.3) 7.3”

To fit bust circumferences of approx. 80-90 (90-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm / 31-35 (35-39) 39-43 (43-47) 47-51 (51-55) 55-59”

Sample shown in size 2. The model’s bust width is 90 cm / 35.5”

YARN

2 (3) 3 (4) 4 (4) 5 skeins of Biches et Bûches Le Petit Lambswool (100% wool, 50g, 248 m / 270 yards), colourway Soft Green.

2 (3) 3 (4) 4 (5) 5 skeins of Biches et Bûches Le Petit Silk & Mohair (30% mulberry silk, 70% super kid mohair, 25g, 212m / 232 yards), colourway Soft Green.

GAUGE

22 sts x 30 rows = 10 cm / 4” on 4 mm / US 6 needles, with both yarns, in stockinette stitch knitted flat, after blocking.
28 sts x 35 rows = 10 cm / 4” on 3.5 mm / US 5 needles, in 1/1 ribbing knitted flat, after blocking.

MATERIALS

NEEDLES
4 mm / US 6 80 cm / 32” circular needles
3.5 mm / US 5 80 cm / 32” circular needles for the ribbing
3 mm / US 4 40 cm / 16” circular needles for the double knitted straps

OTHER
Stitch markers, waste yarn, tapestry needle