The Gallivant
Inspired by the historic manuscript which reveals the hidden secrets of the house of Barnabas, this apparently straightforward knit runs away in unexpected directions.

Yarn
Kate Davies Designs Milarrochy Tweed (70% Wool; 30% Mohair; 100m / 109yds per 25g ball)
A Lochan: 9 (10, 10, 12, 13, 13, 15, 15, 16, 16) x 25g balls
B Snapdragon: 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) x 25g balls
C Ardlui: 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) x 25g balls
D Stockiemuir: 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) x 25g balls

Yarn quantities have been calculated with a 10% swatching allowance. Please bear in mind that garter stitch is very hungry and that small adjustments may significantly affect yarn usage.
Check the sizing table for garment dimensions: if you wish to add length to the sleeves, you may need an extra ball of shade A.
If you wish to add more than a couple of centimetres / an inch of length to the body, you may need an extra ball of each shade.

Needles and Notions
Gauge-size circular needles of appropriate lengths for working body, shoulders and edging (80cm /32in for body; 60cm / 24in for shoulders; 100cm / 40in for edging)
Gauge-size needle(s) of your preferred type for working small circumferences
Above gauge-size needle(s) for working i-cord edging
Above gauge-size dpn (or short above-gauge size needle) for working i-cord buttonholes
Waste yarn for holding stitches
Stitch markers to set position of short rows (if preferred)
Locking stitch markers or bulb pins (to mark buttonhole positions)
Tapestry needle
5-9 small buttons, 1.5cm / ½in diameter

Gauge
Note: sizing is gauge-specific. Be sure to match the gauge for your size.
First, third, fifth, seventh, and ninth sizes: 28 sts and 56 rows to 10cm / 4in over garter stitch worked back and forth on gauge-size needle. Use 3mm needle as a starting point for swatching.
Second, fourth, sixth, eighth and tenth sizes: 26 sts and 52 rows to 10cm / 4in over garter stitch worked back and forth on gauge-size needle. Use 3.25mm needle as a starting point for swatching.

Sizes
Finished chest circumference: 89 (95.5, 100.5, 108, 114.5, 123, 126.5, 136, 150, 158) cm / 35 (37½, 39½, 42½, 45, 48½, 49¾, 53½, 59, 62¼) in
Shown in the first size with slight positive ease.

Pattern notes
Beginning at the left front edge, the body of this cardigan is worked flat and seamlessly, all in one piece, from side to side, shaping the yoke with short row wedges. A straight, striped section is worked separately at each underarm, before shaping the sleeve cap and shoulder, and joining for the back. When the body is complete, sleeves are picked up around the armscyes and worked in the round, top down. A garter stitch edging, worked in one piece all around the neckline, hem, and front openings of the cardigan, finishes the garment, with integrated i-cord buttonholes and buttonbands.

Where one number is given it applies to all sizes.

Palette adjustments
This pattern will look great in a variety of different palettes, but if swapping shades and adjusting the stripe sequence, please bear in mind that, as written, this pattern works for only four shades (A, B, C, D) or alternatively two contrasting shades (A, B).

Sizing and size adjustments
Check the sizing table and pick the size above your actual chest measurements. This garment can be worn neatly, with just a little positive ease (as shown) or with more ease if you prefer a comfier, looser cardigan for layering. If you wish to adjust the length of the garment, please be aware that this will alter the cast on number, and subsequent stitch counts (you’ll need to calculate how many more stitches to cast on, and then add these to the total stitch counts for your size, being particularly careful with your yoke turns).