Materials
Yarn Used: madelinetosh tosh vintage, 1 skein=200 yards
Yardage Requirements for Shawl: approximately 825 total yards
CC1= 2 skeins of madelinetosh vintage or approximately 310 yards of a worsted weight yarn
CC2=1 skein of madelinetosh vintage or approximately 195 yards of a worsted weight yarn
CC3=1 skein of madelinetosh vintage or approximately 175 yards of a worsted weight yarn
CC4=1 skein of madelinetosh vintage or approximately 145 yards of a worsted weight yarn
Needles: US 8/5.0 mm 36+ circular needle to accommodate the large number of sts
US 8/5.0 mm double pointed needles for CO only

Note on needle size: In choosing a needle size for this pattern, you will want to choose a needle size that is going to give you a slightly firmer fabric with your yarn that will soften slightly after blocking but still retain the stitch definition. If you use a needle size that is too large for your yarn, the stitch definition of the knit/purl stitch sections will look messy and distorted.
Gauge before blocking: 20.5 sts and 25 rows in 4 inches
Gauge after blocking: 19 sts and 27 rows in 4 inches after blocking
Shawl Measurements after Blocking: 71 inches wide by 23 inches from cast on to bottom point
My Contrasting Colors:
CC1: madelinetosh tosh vintage, Abiquiu(Speckled Color)
CC2: madelinetosh tosh vintage, Oscuro(Dark Reddish Brown)
CC3:madelinetosh tosh vintage, Nassau Blue(Teal Blue)
CC4:madelinetosh tosh vintage, The Fox(Orange-Red)
Notions: 5 removable stitch markers, darning needle to weave in ends, tools for blocking your finished shawl.

Abbreviations, Definitions and Techniques
K-knit
P-purl
k2tog-knit 2 sts together as one st
DPN-double pointed needle
PM/pm-place marker
SM/sm-slip marker
CO-cast on
BO-bind off
LH-left hand
RH-right hand
RS/rs-right side of work
WS/ws-wrong side of work
st/s-stitch(es)
rep/reps-repeats
yo-yarn over-beginning with the yarn in back, bring the yarn from back to front under the RH needle and up over the RH needle and work the next st as written in the pattern.

Note for the ayo and ayop increases: You are more than welcome to use regular yarn overs instead. I tend to prefer the look of ayo sts because I feel they make a cleaner edge and are more even, so you don’t have to worry about the yarn overs being larger on one side of your work, but it really just depends on your preference.:)
ayo-afterthought yarn over-Lift the bar running between the sts with your LH needle from front to back and knit it. You do not want to close the st.
ayop-afterthought yarn over purl-This will be worked on the WS rows. Lift the bar running between the sts from back to front and purl it through the back loop. You do not want to close the st.
m1R/m1r-make one stitch right-Lift the bar running between the sts with your LH needle from back to front, knit the st to twist it closed.
m1L/m1l-make one stitch left-Lift the bar running between the sts with your LH needle from front to back, knit the st through the back loop to twist it closed.
slwyif-slip the st with the yarn held in front-bring the yarn to the front, slip the next st purlwise from the LH needle to the RH needle.
slwyib-slip the st with the yarn held in back-keeping the yarn to the back, slip the next st purlwise from the LH needle to the RH needle.