These socks are designed for dolls with feet that are approximately 67 mm (2 5/8 inches) long and 24 mm (1 inch) wide. I knit them for my niece’s 60 cm 1/3 scale curvy ball-jointed doll. Experience knitting toe-up socks will be helpful. If you have never knit toe-up socks before, be aware that the small size of this project makes the start especially fiddly. It is easy to bend the tiny knitting needles.

For experienced sock knitters, feel free to substitute your preferred cast-on, gusset increase, and heel turn techniques.

The pattern describes how to knit cabled ankle socks. You can knit the leg section to a different height and with another texture: ribbed, lace, stockinette, etc. For tall socks, you may need to increase the width of the leg depending on how your doll’s leg circumference changes between ankle and knee or above.

Materials:
Size 10 crochet thread (for the sample, I used South Maid Crochet Thread in Rose Pink)
Five 1.5 mm DPNs
~1.8 mm crochet hook - my vintage steel crochet hook is stamped No. 6 Boyle
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 12 stitches per 25 mm (1 inch) and 16 rows per 25 mm (1 inch) in stockinette

Techniques: Judy’s Magic Cast On (JMCO) (http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html)
Wrap and turn short rows (http://knitty.com/ksbbb.php)
RC1 – right leaning mini cable (http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring08/FEATspr08TT.html)
Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off (JSSBO) (http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php)

Instructions:

Toe: Using two DPNs, cast on 12 stitches (6 stitches on each needle) using JMCO.

Knit one round. This row is the most irksome. I found the crochet hook useful.

Divide the stitches evenly between four DPNs. The first two needles are used for the instep, and the second two for the sole.

1. (K1, M1, knit until one stitch before the last stitch, M1, K1), knit the stitches between () twice
2. Knit

Repeat these two rounds until you have a total of 28 stitches, 14 for the instep and 14 for the sole.
Foot: Knit 12 rounds of 28 stitches. The sock should now be about 30 mm (1 ¼ inches) long.

Gusset: The gusset increases occur on the sole.

1. K14 across the instep. On the sole, K1, M1P, knit until one stitch before the last, M1P, K1
2. Knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches

Repeat these two rounds until you have 24 sole stitches (14 + 24 = 38 stitches total).

Heel Extension:

K 14 instep stitches. On the sole, K1, P5, K11, wrap next stitch and turn (W&T)

P10, W&T
K9, W&T
P8, W&T
K7, W&T
P6, W&T
K5, W&T
P4, W&T

Heel Turn: K2, (pick up the wrap and knit it with its stitch) four times, pick up the next wrap and SSK the wrap with its stitch and the next stitch.

Turn. S1, P7, (pick up the wrap and purl it with its stitch) three times, pick up the next wrap and purl together the wrap with its stitch and the next stitch.

1. Turn. S1, K10, SSK
2. Turn. S1, P10, P2Tog

Repeat these rows until one unworked stitch remains at each end of the sole.

Turn, S1, K10, SSK. This leaves one unworked stitch, which you’ll take care of in the next round.

Knit 14 across the front of the leg. SSK to close the gap, K11 across the back of the leg. 14 + 12 = 26 stitches

Leg: Make a decision about what texture you want on the leg: continue knitting in stockinette, start 1x1 ribbing, try simple lace (one row of (YO, K1) followed by a knit row), etc. Knit until the sock is about 15 mm (1/2 inch) shorter than you want and end with the cuff.

For ankle-high cabled socks:

K14 on the front of the leg, K1, M1, K10, M1, K1 on the back of the leg (total 28 stitches) and then:

1. (K1, P2, RC1, P2), knit the stitches between () four times
2. Knit 28
3. Knit 28

Repeat these three rounds 6 times (18 rows total). The leg will be around 27 mm (just over an inch) long, measured from the start of the cable section.

Cuff: Knit 6 rounds of 1x1 twisted rib. Cast off loosely with JSSBO.

Finish: Weave in ends. The leg should be about 40 mm (1 5/8 inches) tall, measured from the start of the cable section.

Knit the second sock.