Suitable looms:
This book covers gauges from 3-10 stitches per inch which includes yarns from #1-#5. Looms that are specifically designed for socks work well. So do many Kiss Looms and the AKB All-in-One loom. If your loom can knit a tube of fabric it does not literally have to be a circle loom and has the right number of pegs to create the sock, most likely it will work. Looms that have an adjustable number of pegs are very helpful in getting the socks sized just right.
These options are included:
fairisle, hem tops, roll top, ribbed tops, cables, pin-tucked tops, lace, footies, booties, non-slip soles, 3 styles of toes, 3 styles of heels, dying your own sock yarn, adding non-slip soles to slipper socks.
Suitable Stitches:
Socks in this book are made from knit and purl stitches. Any version of the knit stitch that you like and gets the gauge you are striving for is acceptable. Flat stitch, true knit stitch and u-wrap are all fine. E-wrap is the least recommended because it isn’t as smooth as the others. This does not matter much for booties as infants don’t walk but for those who do and who wear shoes, e-wrap stitches can create an uncomfortable texture. In certain places in the book e-wrap is specifically recommended because of the properties it brings to a certain situation.
Yarns:
While any yarn may be used, yarns that are a little bit stretchy, fluffy and very strong are desirable. Bamboo, viscose, rayon, linen and such fibers that are known for lovely drape are less desirable for socks because they don’t hold their shape as well and fill in the fabric as fully as do wool and acrylic. Many sock yarns contain a little bit of nylon for strength and a little bit of some elastic fiber to add memory, qualities that really help socks to fit and wear well.

Since so many options are provided, the patterns are fill in the blank style. Details are determined by charts and worksheets specific to the yarn, gauge and style selected.