Some of the best crochet shawl patterns come from the late Victorian/early Edwardian era. Of course, our idea of a shawl and the period concept of a shawl differ slightly. Typically shawls, either knitted or crocheted, from late Victorian/early Edwardian England was square. These square shawls were usually folded in half to create what we think of a triangle shawl today. The fashion of wearing Scottish Hap Shawls in the Georgian era carried over into later periods. Hap shawls are knitted square shawls with a distinctive border. As crochet became more popular in the Victorian era, the square shawl evolved. Thus, many of the shawl patterns in Weldon’s are square. Perhaps one of every five shawls I have encountered in Weldon’s Practical Crochet is triangular.

That said there is nothing inherently wrong or odd about making or wearing a square shawl in the 21st Century. In fact, in terms of versatility and warmth, a square shawl folded over makes sense! It has been possibly since the 1960s that the triangular shawl has been the dominant fashion. For the sake of historicity, the above engraving is included, but be reassured, this pattern is for a triangular shawl. Let me revise the previous statement: this shawl is more a heart shape than a triangle, thus the name Victorian Heart Shawl.

The original pattern began thus:

“We illustrate this shawl by means of two sectional engravings, one showing a portion of the centre of the shawl, and the other representing a corner of the border. The shawl is commenced in the centre and crocheted as a “square”; the pattern is quite easy, quickly worked, and yet effective. Procure a bone crochet needle, and 8 ozs., or more, of Shetland wool, Andalusian, or fine smooth fingering; our example is worked with Shetland wool in long treble stitch—that is, passing the wool twice around the needle, for the working of every stitch; but perhaps the ordinary treble stitch will be better suitable if using any coarser make of wool.”

In the original description of the pattern, Weldon’s gives you options, and options are always desirable when making a shawl from a period pattern! First, we must consider the weight of the yarn mentioned by Weldon’s. Shetland wool is comparable to fingering weight today, and Andalusian wool to sport weight. For this version, I am using a sport weight yarn. Therefore, a F or G hook may be the best hook size to use for this project. As for amount, 8 ounces may translate to 600 or more yards of sport weight yarn. Use your discretion when figuring amounts.

As for stitches, Weldon’s “long treble stitch” translates to a treble stitch in US terminology, and a “treble” is a double crochet stitch. In any case, using a treble or double crochet will give you a fine shawl. For this version, I am using double crochet stitches throughout. In fact, the body of this shawl relies heavily on the double crochet stitch in groups of four and eight.

The border of this shawl uses picots and makes for a nice lacy counterpoint to what may be a denser body depending on the weight of your yarn.

Materials:
F-G (3.75-4 mm) hook
Tapestry needle to weave ends (optional)

Yarn:
600+ yards sport weight yarn
(wool or wool blend is recommended for optimal blocking)

Finished Size:
Variable

Gauge:
Variable

Abbreviations:
Ch – Chain
Sl st – Slip stitch
St – stitch
Sc – single crochet
Dc – double crochet
Sp – space
Bet – between
Rep – repeat
Inc – increase
Shell – 4 dc in one stitch
SinS – Shell in Shell (4 dc in the middle of shell in previous row)
Picot – ch 3, sl st into 1st ch

Possible yarns: Wool of the Andes Sport Yarn, or Cascade Longwood Sport