a light oversized pullover for layering
一件適合多層次穿搭的oversized罩衫

This pattern has been tech edited and test knitted. It is available in English and Traditional Chinese.

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Harmonious shades of Shangdrok’s undyed yak and silk yarns come together in this breezy oversized pullover created with three yarns: Silky Yak, Tussar Silk and Peduncle Silk.

Tussar silk, also referred to as wild silk, comes from silkworms that live in wild forests. It is rustic but light and comfortable to wear even on warmer days. Shangdrok has kept tussar silk’s rich colours and texture in its natural state. Its beautiful drape and colours inspired the expanse of sheer stockinette stitches on the back, and the name of this pullover.

When the tussar silkworm is ready to spin its cocoon, the first silk that is spun forms a stem, called peduncle. After the peduncle has been formed, the silkworm begins to spin the cocoon that creates tussar silk. The peduncle is dense and is nearly black in colour. Through a multi-step process, the short fibres of the peduncles form a firm, highly twisted dark brown silk yarn that is even more rustic than tussar silk. I made many swatches to explore the best way to show the characteristics of Shangrok’s undyed Peduncle Silk from India. I opted for a lace pattern with flower-like details that remind me of lattice windows in India called jali. They create privacy and diffused light indoors while providing good airflow through a building. This lace detail is used in the front and back of the pullover.

Slip stitches work perfectly with slippery Silky Yak from Tibet. The lush elongated stitches even out with a beautiful sheen across 4-row stripes of matt and breezy Tussar Silk, providing interesting contrast in colour, texture and sheerness. 2 panels of geometric patterns of mountains, valleys and plateaus mirror each other across the body.

The slipped stitch stripe pattern is fun to knit, and you will have a video demonstration to follow if you need help.

Designed with plenty of ease, Wild Forests is a good layering piece that can be worn with either side as the front over sleeveless tops and dresses, or with Gulsang, a tank top in Shangdrok Silky Yak, named after common wildflowers on the Tibetan plateau.

FINISHED BUST CIRCUMFERENCE

1 (2, 3, 4) = 129.5 (152, 175, 198) cm / 51 (60, 69, 78)“ finished bust circumference

The sample was knit in Size 2 with 66 cm / 26” positive ease at bust. Suggested ease: + 40-66 cm / 16-26”.

YARN

Y1
Light Fingering weight
Shangdrok Silky Yak
(466 m / 510 yards per 100 g skein, 50% Yak, 50% Silk)
Sample colour: Undyed (cream)

410 (445, 495, 535) m / 450 (485, 540, 585) yards
1 (1, 2, 2) skeins

Y2
Lace weight
Shangdrok Peduncle Silk Lace 2-ply
(1000 m / 1095 yards per 100 g skein, 100% Silk)
Sample colour: Undyed (dark brown)

140 (165, 190, 215) m / 155 (180, 210, 235) yards
1 skein

Y3
Lace weight
Shangdrok Tussar Silk Lace 2-ply
(980 m / 1070 yards per 100 g skein, 100% Silk)
Sample colour: Undyed

395 (465, 530, 600) m / 430 (510, 580, 655) yards
1 skein

Please keep in mind that yardage is an estimate.

NEEDLES

One 3 mm / US 2½ circular needle, 60 cm / 24” or longer
One (set) 3 mm / US 2½ preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round
One 3.5 mm / US 4 circular needle, 60 cm / 24” or longer
One 5 mm / US 8 circular needle, 60 cm / 24” or longer

Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Stitch markers, stitch holder or waste yarn, tapestry needle for mattress stitch and weaving in ends.

GAUGES (after blocking)

28 sts and 32 rows = 10 cm / 4” in Stripe Pattern (Chart A) with 3.5 mm / US 4 needle
using Y1 and Y3.
28 sts and 32 rows = 10 cm / 4” in Stockinette St with 3.5 mm / US 4 needle using Y3.
28 sts and 16 rows = 10 cm / 4” and 7.5 cm / 3” in Lace Pattern with 5 mm / US 8 needle using Y2.

這件輕盈透氣的寬鬆版上衣，選用北方牧人Shangdrok自然無染的蠶絲氂牛絨線、Tussar野蠶絲線與Peduncle絲梗線，三種不同特性與質地的線材織成，和諧地融合這些特色纖維的原始自然色澤。

三色野蠶絲(Tussar silk)，採集自野外森林的野蠶，兼具粗獷風格與輕盈舒適的特質，製成的織品，即便在炎熱的天氣也能夠自在舒服地穿著。北方牧人Shangdrok的野蠶絲，有著非常豐富的自然色調與質樸的手感，織物呈現出的美麗垂墜感及光澤，是我在設計後背平針織紋，以及為罩衫命名時的靈感來源。

當Tussar野蠶準備開始結繭時，會先吐出如植物莖一般的梗狀物(peduncle)後，才在上面吐絲結繭。這段梗狀的野蠶絲，質地密實而顏色深沉近似黑。經一連串煮軟、去絲膠、清潔的繁複處理後，這些取得不易的深色絲梗所捻成的線即為Peduncle絲梗線，比起Tussar三色野蠶絲更加質樸、粗獷。我用這些蠶絲線，製作了很多織片，希望能為北方牧人這款來自印度的獨特野蠶絲梗線，找到最能呈現其特質的表現方式。我用這款絲梗線設計了蕾絲花紋，她的樣貌就像是印度建築中常見的幾何花朵格窗- jali，當光線穿過這些格紋窗後，會在室內漫射開來，營造出幽微的氛圍，但又同時提供了足夠的通氣性，我把這種意象的蕾絲細節，融進這件罩衫裡。

而來自西藏，柔軟滑順又輕盈的蠶絲犛牛絨線，非常適合滑針編織，美麗的長針目，跨越了以三色野蠶絲編織的條紋花樣，蠶絲犛牛絨線的霧光感，與野蠶絲線交織、堆疊出有趣又強烈的對比；雙線幾何圖騰，蔓延在織物上，就像彼此相互映照的山脈、山谷與高原。

Wild Forests，是一件非常適合多層次穿搭的單品，可以前後兩穿，搭配背心或洋裝，也很適合與Gulsang- 另一件同樣使用北方牧人蠶絲犛牛絨線編織，以西藏高原常見的野花，格桑花命名的無袖背心搭配穿著。

Tech editor: Atelier Knits
Translator (Traditional Chinese): Lucid Islet Knit
Test knitters : Aran, Monica, Sandra, JY, Teresa, Terry, Roberta, Keiko, Tomomi, Christine, Vivian