Knitting single ply.

I knitted the sleeved to check my in-the-round gauge. I used a smaller number of cast on stitches than what the pattern recommended for the sleeves. I casted on 44 stitches using the Old Norwegian cast-on.

I used a matching color of spun fingering wool to reinforce the single ply for a sturdier cast-on. Edge knitted in the Broken Rib pattern Increased every 10 rows (every 1.5”) until I had 76 stitches which is about a third of the body stitches. Total sleeve length 19”

The dual fiber Plötulopi has long tog fibers along with short they fibers so you can tug near the needle without fear of it pulling apart when tugging excess yarn at the needle change when magic looping and r working with dpn stock avoid ladders.

Use Petersham Ribbon to line inside of steek. It looks like grosgrain ribbon but will have a little stretch.

Body: cast on 208 stitches. Broken Rib edging for 2”.
I did three sets of short rows on the back after every two inches from edging to help keep bottom of sweater from riding up in back. This also adds length to the back without extra material in the lap region.

After 6” from hem, I added shaping just to the back. I placed markers for the shaping a third of the way in from the sides. Waist decreases rows an 1” apart. (196 sts)
Work waist even for 3” waist. Bust 2” apart (200 sts) Work even 3”inch to underarm.

After joining arms (208 sts) I knitted one inch before decrease Row. Decrease 24 sts evenly in next row. (184 sts) Then decrease 80 sts over next 18 rows. (104sts)

I placed stitch markers between the pattern repeats.

Short rows to raise the neck in back usually use 80-84% of total stitches for the longest short-row and 60% for the shortest short-row so they actually wrap around the shoulders and over onto the front of the sweater so the radius doesn’t become too short. Most seem to be placed between the yoke and neck and use 3 to 4 sets but you can do some rows before the yoke (3 sets and using between 50%to 70% of the stitches on the needle.) Usually I start with my longest row then turn 3 to 5 stitches before previous row’s turn for each set. I saw where Zimmermann, on her bottom to neck sweaters, started w her shortest row and worked a couple of stitches more for each set so I tried that approach. I love trying different ways. The particular way I did the short rows to raise the back of the neck for this project was, after my decreases post yoke design, I placed markers at the mid point of my sleeves. Then starting at the steek I knitted across the front, across the first sleeve, across the back, and to the marker at the second sleeve’s midpoint. I did the German short row turn and purled across the back and to the marker on the other sleeve and turned. Knitted across the back and picked up the first turned stitch; then knitted 4 more stitches before turning for my second set. I did a total of four sets of short rows.
after the chart and before ribbing.
half inch of neck ribbing, EZ sewn bind off

Shortrows in garterstitch
https://youtu.be/HmiAymLTmI4

Another great tutorial on where to place short rows to better shape neck and armholes:
https://youtu.be/dVmFH081B10

Zen of Kitchener Stitch
http://nelkindesigns.blogspot.com/2010/08/zen-of-kitchene...

Grafting under the arms w no holes:
http://www.tricksyknitter.com/how-to-graft-underarm-stitc...
http://www.laurachau.com/grafting-underarm-stitches-with-...

I just finished crocheting to secure my steek stitches. I used a spun finer weight yarn so it would have less bulk and lay flat. I went down 2 sizes for the crochet hook.

Steek Tutorials:
https://katedaviesdesigns.com/tutorials/
Steek w knit facing:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/steek-with-knit-facing/
https://youtu.be/JvpOUoDUH2c
Meg Swansea on Securing Steeks w Crochet or Sewing Machine: https://www.schoolhousepress.com/blog/megonsteeks/
http://www.vogueknitting.com/magazine/article_archive/meg…
http://www.vogueknitting.com/magazine/article_archive/meg...
http://eunnyjang.com/knit/2006/01/steeking_chronicles_the...
http://brooklyntweed.blogspot.com/2007/04/

Crochet Button Bands:
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/8-lessons-moms-sweater...
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/diane-gerlachs-crochet...

I went ahead and crocheted the button bands before cutting the steek.
I went down to a size 3 mm crochet hook for a sturdier less stretchy band. After comparing gauge for crochet to the stockinette row gauge, I picked up a ratio of two sets of 4:5 and one set of 3:4. Placed markers for top and bottom buttonholes 1/2” in from edge first, then divided the rest of the band evenly. Buttons are on order so used dimes, which had the same diameter, to arrange out and see how many buttons I wanted to order. Did not order any extra if I should lose one but that might be a consideration
https://blog.tincanknits.com/2018/12/20/how-to-plan-a-ste...

To alleviate stress from buttons pulling on the delicate yarn, I sewed through a backer button on the inside when sewing on the buttons. You can also cut out a small disc from felt to serve as the reinforcement button.

Alternate garter ribbed button https://youtu.be/AtnBlGtCGKY