In order to better reproduce a knitted item in a circular sock knitting machine one needs to know how many rows and stitches per inch per cylinder on your regularly used sock yarn. The ribber is not used on these.
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The notes I took are now included which show results by cylinder and dial turns, the knitted 30 row fabric segments measured in length (cm/inches) on machine and off. And the stitches and rows per inch per dial turns. I noted the colours as perhaps the dye caused that yarn to respond differently than the dyed yarn.
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Plan: With acrylic sock weight yarn, work and create a hung a hem. After the hung hem the swatch will be done working through two colours of the same yarn in 30 row segments changing only the tension dial. The piece will be ended with another hung hem of acrylic sock weight yarn.
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This project is actually my second set of swatches (the first never made it to ravelry before). I’ve noticed a that since having had my Legare refurbished by Dave Lord Nov 2019 my machine felt different in regards to tension. This new swatch confirms it as I now can work 8.5 dial turns whereas before it was only 7.5. With both the past and current swatches I used the same lions brand sock ease yarn but with the dark colour being a different colour.

Note that gauge cannot be set without needles and yarn on the cylinder and machine loaded. Gauge differs by both fiber used, tension, weight applied and cylinders. Even though the CSM does have a basic pointer gauge on the tension dial, I haven’t found it to be precise. I have tried using digital callipers for settings but also found the numbers not as fail-proof.

Prior to starting it’s important to note which direction you turn your dial to tighten, and which direction to loosen. On my Legare to tighten (raise the cam) I turn the dial clockwise. To loosen I turn it counter-clockwise.

Here we go.

Ensure your yarn is on a cone and fed with even tension. Cast on with scrap and work at least 10 rows.

Always change the tension using the exact same point on the cylinder - I use the 6 o’clock position aligning the tension dial to that point.

With scrap yarn on your machine align tension dial with what will always be the same point, and gently tighten dial to its tightest.

Do this carefully as the generic gauge pointer on the side might point beyond the side gauge.

Note that some extreme tensions might be too much for the components to knit causing clashing so be careful. I haven’t had this problem personally but I have seen others with this problem.

The top of the tension dial on my machine is printed with 1, 2, 3 and 4 with half marks noted as well. For ease of use with dial at its tightest, place a dab of bright nail polish on the top part closest to the cylinder. Whenever doing tension it’s important to always do the same things so I always use a stack of three buckle weights (not my hand) to apply weight to the knitting.

PHOTO 1

Machine on tightest setting - I call this tension 0. Nail polish mark towards machine. Hang hem if not yet done. Work one row.

PHOTO 2

Tension dial still on tightest setting now known as “zero”. All new yarn will be added from 3pm using the Faux Russian join. How:
https://youtu.be/POuiD9-FOB4

Change to colour 1 and work 25 rows noting segment length using ruler. Keep notes.

Change to colour 2, turn tension dial half a turn (side opposite now towards cylinder - my dial =“4” mark). Work 30 rows noting segment length using ruler. Keep notes.

Repeat steps of changing colour and tension until machine is at its loosest.

Note that some settings will be difficult, causing stitches to drop etc.

Finish swatch with hung hem initial yarn again and add scrap. Take off the machine and allow to rest.

After an evening of rest be sure to measure 30 row colour segments again to best determine gauge of this yarn.