I studied hard to figure out socks before starting these! I have watched three sock making classes on Craftsy, read three books, watched loads of You Tube videos to learn the anatomy of a sock, how to fit properly (gauge gauge gauge!), different choices for heel flap and toe. I didn’t want to use dpn so had to do some extra research to figure out Magic Loop.

I finally decided to use Getting Started Knitting Socks by Ann Budd , socks for 8 stitches per inch, as a place to begin. Because I prefer Magic Loop, I had to adapt her pattern and so I took her classes on Crafts and then figured out how to incorporate Magic Loop.

PIC #1: Completed socks! They fit just right.
PIC #2: Leg is done, heel and heel turn done, gusset in progress.
PIC #3: Gusset complete. Beginning foot to toe.
PIC #4: Close up of k2 p2 ribbing for leg and top of foot.

The best thing I did was to finally buy an extra good magnifying light! Wow does this change how well I can pick up dropped stitches, avoid splitting yarn and just do a better job! I can’t wait to return to my lace shawl when Christmas is over now that I have this wonderful light!

Here’s what I did:

CO 76 stitches: using Old Norwegian Cast On as this has the reputation of being nice and stretchy for top down socks.

Set up Magic Loop: To get started with Magic Loop, count 38 stitches from the end and bend the cable so that 38 stitches are on one half and 38 stitches are on the other half. Slide the stitches toward the needle tip and hold them parallel to each other, points pointed to the right, with the working yarn on the needle furthest away from you. Check to be sure the stitches are not twisted on the cable, that the “alligator teeth, “ which are the stitches, all face inward.

Decision for design: I decided to use the k2 p2 rib as this stretch would allow me to err a bit in sizing as I began by thinking these would be a Christmas gift for my brother-in-law. I am using that ribbing all the way down to the toe but a standard s1 k1 heel flap and a French Heel turn.

Leg: I knit the k2 p2 for the leg for 96 rows. I advise putting stitch markers every 10 rows (or every multiple of 10) as you go to make counting rows easier.

Transition to heel: At the end of the 96 rows for the leg, I k 19, then k2, p2 across the ribbing area that will be the top of the sock for 20 stitches to the middle of the magic loop turn then 18 stitch of k2 p2 for other side of top of the sock, then k 19 for second half of where the heel will be to make the transition to the heel. I arrange the stitches such that 38 stitches of K2 p2 are on one half of the magic loop and the k19 plus k19 are on the other half, being sure to leave a marker where the beginning of the row has been. I leave the k2 p2 dropped behind and work the 38 stitches of the knitted row as short rows, no longer magic loop for this part but back and forth.

Heel: The heel is sl 1 purl wise with yarn in back. K1, sl 1 across. Turn. sl 1 purl wise with yarn in front. Purl across. Repeat for 25 rows. End ready to work a knit row.

rd 1: k 21, ssk, k1 trn.
rd 2: sl 1, p5, p2tog, p 1, turn
rd 3: sl 1 purwise, k to one stick before the gap. ssk, k1, turn
rd 4: sl 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked. End with a WS row. The last stitch can be a ssk on row 3 and p2tog on row 4 if there are not enough sts left to work the k1 and p1. At any rate, 22 sts should remain.

Gusset: Rd 1. Pick up and knit 20 sts along the selvage edge. I picked up an extra stitch in the loops in the gusset for extra strength. This altered the pattern a little by adding one stitch at each juncture where a hole can be a problem. This was from advice I picked up somewhere. The added stitch is taken two stitches down in the juncture. Thus, 21 stitches are actually added each side where sts are picked up. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the ribbing that will form the top of the sock. K2 p2 across the 38 sts of this section. Place another marker to designate the other side of this section. I juggled the magic loops anyway I could during this process to continue to work. Pick up another 21 stitches on this second selvaged edge. Then knit across the 1st half of the back heel (11 stitches) and place a marker. This marker becomes the beginning of the row.

Now restart the magic loop. Put half the stitches on one needle and the other half on the other needle.

Rd. 2. Knit to last 3 sets before the marker placed at the start of the ribbing. K2tog, k1. Knit across in k2 p2 rib to half marker. Do the magic loop exchange. K2 p2 across ribbing to marker and move marker. K1, ssk, knit to end of row.

Rd. 2 knit around, switching to k2 p2 across ribbing.

Rep rds 2 and 3 until 76 sts remain. I may have lost count but I think this took about 32 rows.

Foot: Knit around until ready to begin toe. From the beginning of the foot to start of the toe is 52 to 60 rows to fit hubby’s size 11 feet.

Toe: I decided to do the wedge toe. I like that it is a decreasing toe and will allow me to fit Brad’s foot exactly. I prefer it to the round toe as I’m not as fond of the four “seams” in the round toe, and the short row toe, though I like it best, requires I know just exactly what I’m doing with the length of the entire sock.

Place stitches so that half the stitches are on one needle and half on the other. A marker should be at the start of the row which is now the middle of the bottom of the foot in the stockinette section, another marker at the start of the ribbing and another marker at the end of the ribbing (even though these markers will “float” around in the magic loops.

R1: From middle marker, knit to 3 stitches before the marker. k2tog, k1, exchange magic loop. k1, slip slip knit, k1. Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2 tog, k1, exchange magic loop, k1, slip slip knit, k1, knit to middle marker.

R2: Knit around.

Repeat round 1 and 2 until 40 stitches remain. (This took me about 18 rds total, counting rds 1 and 2).

Then begin decrease in every row by knitting rd 1 over and over until 16 stitches remain. I think this took 7 more rds. so at rd 25.

Knit to turn so that 8 stitches are on one end of round needle and 8 stitches are on the second end of round needle. Use kirchner stitch to close.

Now, the challenge of making sock #2 matches sock #1!