I went to see friends in Denmark and on the way home from a restaurant one night my friend’s step daughter Ophelia borrowed my Angle mitts. They fit her perfectly and I was tempted to give them to her, but I needed them to finish writing their pattern so I had to abstain. Instead I designed these mitts specifically for Ophelia.

I had this petrol-coloured yarn for years but felt no design was pretty enough to use it. Finally I thought a classic and feminine vest could be pretty enough, so I went for the details; ruffles, buttons and cables.

This is a classic top-down yoked sweater with yoke, sleeve separation, body and then sleeves and collar worked at the end. You need three colors of yarn, preferably well contrasting.

This vest is worked top-down, starting from the saddle shoulders. After picking up stitches and joining the saddles together you work the back flat, down to the armpit. Then you pick up one front at a time and work the V, before joining all pieces together and working to the end in the round. The pattern contains instructions for the intarsia s...

This top is worked top-down. You start with the collar and saddles in garter st in CC (DK weight) yarn, so the shoulder section is a little denser and provides some sturdiness. Then the front and back top sections are worked flat in mesh pattern with sport/fingering MC yarn. They are joined in the round and the mesh pattern continues. At the bo...

This sweater is worked top-down in 1x1 ribbing, Latvian braids, stranded colorwork and twisted 1x1 ribbing.

This hoodie started out inspired by a pair of earrings I saw, with the symbol of Inanna, Queen of Heaven (goddess of sex, love, war, justice, and political power) but when it was finished another feature was unexpectedly striking: the bottom section of my yoke pattern looked like a “f--k off”.

This cardigan is an unusual knitting project since it involves a couple of crafting techniques that are not knitting; sewing (by hand and machine), steeking and applying ribbons, plus some optional crochet.

This cardigan/shrug model is a flying-squirrel-type cardi with triangular sleeves. 

The Icelandic wool of Alafosslopi yarn is amazing; it’s warm and even withstands rain. However it’s also quite itchy and that’s where I got the idea of combining it with soft superwash wool for the collar, cuffs and buttonband.  Large areas of warmth combined with softness against the skin.

This pattern uses a stitch combination that reminds of snowflakes. With the addition of buttons, these wrist warmers even have their own little snow balls.

This cardigan is worked sideways starting at the back and working first right side (as seen when wearing the garment) and then left. Bottom ribbing is added next and then an intermediate blocking is recommended before seaming the shoulders together. Then front ribbing is added before finishing off with sleeves.

The cowls are worked bottom-up in the round, starting with some one-color stockinette, then colorwork while shaping the front, moving on to german short-rows in one color, finishing by working the collar and seaming it on the inside.

This is a top-down yoked tee/sweater, most of it worked in stranded colorwork. It starts at the collar with corrugated ribbing, then some short-rows for neck shaping and then the full yoke. After sleeve separation the body is worked mostly in stranded colorwork and then finished by twisted rib. Sleeves are short (to the elbow) and they are also...

This design will be most flattering for those of us with a smaller bust compared to our general size. It’s intended to end at the waist.

This vest is started at the shoulders and then front and back are worked flat in ribbed stripes. After striped sections are done they are joined in the round and knitted (stranded) colorwork entails. The vest fits fairly snuggly over the bust and is loose-fit over tummy and hips.

Last summer my family went to the Netherlands. We spent one day in Deventer, where the Lebuïnuskerk (St Lebuinus church) is the main church building. Though it was built in the 15th century, parts of it were older; in the centre of the church was a tile floor (second picture) said to be dating from 1250! Imagine how many people must have walked...

This design is worked top-down, at the start it’s worked flat and after about half the yoke it’s joined in the round. Sleeves are very short, really just cap sleeves, and yoke depth ease is generous. There are several different stitch patterns thoughout the body to create a surface interest; seed stitch, ribbing and herringbone.

In this design you start from the front hem under the bust, then work up over the shoulders and after working the back lace you join your project in the round and finish in the round.

The pattern is worked bottom up in the round and is written for a right-hand mitt, but if you want to do a left-hand mitt there is a variation for that in the end. There is also a striped version.

This slightly cropped tee is worked top-down with short-rows for neck shaping. Then there’s a stranded two-color yoke, separation of sleeves and a body where you can select to decrease for your waist or not. In my sample I have made waist decreases, but there are instructions for both variants. At the waist there is more stranded colorwork for ...

This sweater is worked top-down, starting with the yoke, sleeve separation and body.

This cardigan is worked top down in the round and is made into a cardigan by cutting a steek.

This cozy polo is worked top-down in the round, using circular needles. The circumference is gradually increased by yarn-overs in a raglan shape. The front V is worked flat and the edging is finally added in the round. Beads can be added as an extra embellishment after blocking. They will also help keeping the polo in place.

This sweater is worked top down, starting with ribbing, short-rows and raglan setup. The yoke is worked in one color while doing raglan increases. After sleeve separation Monstera leaves are done in stranded colorwork before bottom ribbing finish. Sleeves are done in “rainy window” style (P3, K1 alternating).

This headband is worked in double knitting as a long rectangle that is sewn together in the end using the Kitchener stitch. It can easily be made smaller by working fewer snowflakes.

This sweater is worked top-down: You start by ribbing in MC only. Next come some increases for larger sizes and then the CC is added in a corrugated rib. Ribbing is finished using short-rows for neck shaping. The yoke is worked entirely in stockinette in a two-color labyrinth pattern. After the labyrinth chart some MC rounds are added before sl...

Start with a garter tab cast-on, then the shawl grows from there. After the shoelace sections are set up you work repeats of four rows, increasing by six stitches for each set of four.

This hat is worked in the round from ribbing to top. It contains some easy stranded colorwork and uses small amounts of 7 different colors.

This pattern is written as one-size but the hat circumference is easily adjusted due to repeating charts. You can use 4-7 different colors of yarn as long as they are similar in weight.

For this pattern I was inspired by my friend Mia, so I chose colors she likes and got started.

This sweater is worked top-down, with sleeve separation and finishing the body before working the actual sleeves. The collar is added at the very end.

This sweater is worked top-down in the round using a combination of knit and purl rounds in the yoke to create ridges. After the sleeves are separated the body is done in colorwork, using three shades of blue and one bright contrast color.

This is a top-down design where you start with the yoke, separate sleeves, finish the body. Then add the collar and sleeves. Sleeve and body length are easily adjustable.

This is a stranded colorwork pullover vest. It is worked bottom-up with steeks and sleeve/V-neck decreases. Steeks are reinforced with a sewing machine, then cut and ribbing added. Shoulder straps are grafted together using the Kitchener stitch.

The Flowing Water sweater is worked top-down, starting below the polo/turtle neck, which is done last. Sleeves are separated before the circle band, then a slight waist shaping is done in variegated yarn before the ribbed finish.

This cardigan is worked in the round, top-down. The cardigan opening is created at the end by cutting a steek and working a ribbed lining.

In the spring of 2020, I decided to treat myself to some variegated, hand-dyed yarn. I found the Country Road, by ND Yarn Company, and I loved the colors. However, using variegated yarn in two color knitting proved difficult. Instead I decided to build the whole design around the Country Road colors and variation. The fairisle sections in this ...

This pattern starts from the top with the yoke, where you first knit the branches of the Cherry tree and then the blossoms. To shape the neck you will use two-color short-rows (not as difficult as it sounds). Below the yoke, knitting is very straight-forward in one color, until you reach the waist where you can choose to narrow it off, if you w...

I like Dalecarlian Kurbits painting but most figures are way too colorful and complicated to knit. However, while browsing around an auction site I found one with an unusually simple design that I used as base for these wrist warmers. If you are curious, search for object 690628 at bukowskis.com.

This headband can be used as a gauge swatch for my Art nouveau fairisle sweater (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/art-nouveau-fair...) or as a garment in its own right.

This is a top down-design where you start with the yoke colorwork and add the neckline in the end. Three different colors are used; one for the yoke, one main “background color” and another one for base and sleeve colorwork. You can of course work with only two colors and if you do, add CC1 and CC2 yardage together. See table in picture for yar...

This design is a very simple tube, knitted in bulky yarn that will warm your ass nicely.

The starting point for this pattern was a picture of a wool panel, made for the Tutankhamun exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1978. It had vibrant colors and depicted wings or feathers. I instantly loved it and wanted to use the colors and forms in a sweater for my mother, which resulted in this top-down design.

This pattern is inspired by the colors of the Jay Bird. It has a flattering shape if you have a small bust size relative your general size. Sleeves are done in 3/4 in a puffed/bishop type shape. The pattern contains both stranded colorwork and herringbone stitches.

This headband has linings in garter stitch and I-cord respectively, which renders one end looser and one tighter, for a perfect, snug fit. No wind will disturb your ears!

This cozy cowl is knit in herringbone and seed stitch using two alternating colors. Because of herringbone stitches being quite thick the cowl is sturdy and stands up nicely, warming your neck.

This pattern is for a warm and cozy hat, inspired by grain. My grand parents were farmers and me and my cousin ran around the grain fields when we were kids. When trying duplicate stitch embroidery for the first time I liked how they resembled Barley and other grain. This hat is a tribute to all grain farmers in general and my grand parents in ...

For all my sisters who hate being cold while typing in the office.

This is a quick and stylish ear warmer, knitted in fair-isle technique with two colors. The pattern is written in text and with a chart for colorwork. I did it in two shades of grey, but any two contrasting colors can be used.

This cardigan pattern is inspired by ancient greek amphoras at the Mediterranean History Museum in Stockholm. It’s knitted top-down using fair-isle in four different colors.