Doing the 2022 rewrite version for a more cropped sweater. Pattern recommendation of 3-5” of ease, meaning final chest size should be 36-38”.

Swatching, pre- and post-blocking/washing (per 4”):

I like the US 10.5 swatch better. Making size B for 38” bust. Re-mathing all lengths/row counts because, per usual, my row gauge is off.

Cable cast on.

Alternating skeins every 2nd row.

Changing YO increases to m1L or m1R as appropriate.

Knitted cast on for joining in round under sleeves instead of backwards loop cast on.

When picking up underarm stitches for sleeves, picking up one extra in each corner and decreasing first round to reduce gaps between pickup stitches and held stitches.

Modifying sleeve length to be 21” rather than the pattern-schematic 18” so my wrists are covered.

Other than a video on the designer’s instagram, I’m not finding much information on the “half JSSBO bind off” this pattern calls for. I hate videos, but the gist is that it’s the JSSBO, but only on the purl stitches, bind off the knit stitches as normal. I can’t decide how I like it, I might unpick the sleeve BO and replace with a sewn or tubular bind off… I will decide after I finish the second sleeve.

Sticking with half-JSSBO, as much as I like the sewn invisible ribbed bind off, I decided it’s not worth the effort to unpick the first sleeve’s bind off.

For the collar, I did a German Short Row instead of sewing shut the gap when switching directions for the broken rib.

Final verdict: ended up with less positive ease than I was hoping, but noting too terrible. The bottom ribbing is a bit tight so it rides up a wee bit, but I fully expect that to loosen with time.

The chest is at about a half-inch ease, which is still a change from my mostly-negative-ease other sweaters. I think I was impatient in my swatching and measuring. The final sweater clocks in at 14 sts/4” rather than 13, so not a huge difference but accounts for the final bust being 33.5” instead of 36”.