Nupps!!! :)

Marker Moves for the written directions:

If you mark the 2 stitch garter edge your markers will move about half the time. I wouldn’t bother.

Chart B:
You will add a repeat to the end of the center section on row 7 and 11.

Rows 9 and 13 you will find you need to add stitches into the beginning of the center section.

Chart C:

Row 4 (yes, this is a WS row) adds repeats both before and after the existing repeats.

Rows 9 and 19 the cdd outside the main repeat and all the following repeats take a stitch, from the following repeat except the last marked repeat. It is different, and not part of the 13 repeats of the row but keep it marked.

Row 11 each repeat takes a stitch from the following section.

Row 15 each repeat gives a stitch to the following section.

row 17 the first marked repeat is different from all the others and all repeats take a stitch from the following section.

Chart D:

Row 1 Keep the 14 repeats from chart C the first and last marked repeat are different on this row, but those markers will still be useful later. Every t2l takes one stitch from each side of the marker.

Rows 3, 9 and 11 the cdd outside the main repeat and all the following repeats take a stitch, from the following repeat except the last marked repeat. It is different, and not part of the 13 repeats of the row but keep it marked.

Chart E:

Rows 3 and 5 the cdd outside the main repeat and all the following repeats take a stitch, from the following repeat except the last marked repeat. It is different, and not part of the 13 repeats of the row but keep it marked.

Row 13 the first of your 14 marked repeats is not part of the repeats section for this row. It and all of the repeats give a stitch to the decrease at the beginning of the next marked section.

Chart F:

Rows 3, 9 and 15 the cdd outside the main repeat and all the following repeats take a stitch, from the following repeat except the last marked repeat. It is different, and not part of the 13 repeats of the row but keep it marked.

Row 11 the first of your 14 marked repeats is not part of the repeats section for this row. It and all of the repeats give a stitch to the decrease at the beginning of the next marked section.

Chart G:

Rows 3, 9 , 33 and 39 the cdd outside the main repeat and all the following repeats take a stitch, from the following repeat except the last marked repeat. It is different, and not part of the 13 repeats of the row but keep it marked.

Row 5 and 41 the first of your 14 marked repeats is not part of the repeats section for this row. It and all of the repeats give a stitch to the decrease at the beginning of the next marked section.

Other Notes:

I used the US 2.5 needle in addition to the US 4 to make my nupps like I did in the Forest Path Stole. I also did k1, YO for my nupps instead of k1, p1 out of habit, as that’s how I learned them.

Chart B:

Row 13 looks like there is a rogue nupp. It is supposed to be there. Knit it!

I stopped short on chart G only knitting 66 rows. I could probably have knit to the regular size, but I was as always paranoid about running out of yarn. The finishing rows work for the regular size still works with this many less rows, because there are no increases between when I stopped, and when Romi says to.

On the BO when I got down to 2 spaces between picots I did them only 3 stitches apart instead of the patterns 4 to make the spaces evener visually.

I do like the results of this pattern a lot better after blocking. Before blocking mine reminded me of a plucked chicken.

For next time, I might try to continue the body edge during the finishing rows, and fudge a corner and use that body edge pattern as a knit on edge. I don’t like doing picot bind offs, though I don’t mind them once they are done.

Unblocked it had a drop from the center of 23 inches.
After blocking it has a wingspan of about 72 inches, and a drop of about 32. I blocked it to really hard.