BEWARE! THIS PATTERN IS HIGHLY ADDICTIVE !
Ordered the CC yarn at Jimmy Beans (USA), they are always very reliable and accommodating with the postage from the US to Europe!
Red Heart Boutique Treasure in the colors (from the top down):
1) Abstract / 2) Watercolors / 3) Horizon
The MC is from Cascade Yarns, Ecological Wool, in Natural. Purchased from Laine et Tricot (France).
Out of curiosity I ordered square dp needles from Jimmy Beans. Pattern starts with circular Emily Ocker CO : the square birchwood needles feel good, nice points, not at all cumbersome. Easy TV-knitting.
16 November 2012. Finished all squares.

Notes on this pattern.
1) Emily Ocker CO with MC “Boutique Treasure Yarn”. Starting with a crochet ring is also possible if the Ocker ring is easier for you (https://www.pinterest.de/pin/838936236808201451/).

2) Increased stitch count by picking up the right leg of the stitch in the row BELOW the one you have on your left needle (not with kf&b and not by knitting into the bar between two stitches) to make a truly invisible increase, leaving no hole and no nub. Here is the best tutorial I could find for this technique, from TECHknitting. Changed to the bulky MC “Cascade” yarn in Round 12.

3) Knitting the corners: I knitted the individual corners by knitting forwards (knitting) and backwards (without turning the work), starting with the short-rows. The corners are very uniform this way plus I did not have to turn the work at all. Ehre is an excellent tutorial for this technique. After a couple of corners this really speeds up the corner-rows with every module, plus for me it improved the uniformity of stitch tension in those short rows.
In my next short-row project I will use the practical Japanese short-row method by Susanna i.e. described by Purlwise - replicating this German short-row method by Roxanne Richardson.
Another great short-row method is described here.

I used the German short-row method for my Wingspan and like the results.

4) Binding off: Used a crochet hook the size of the needles and made an sc-bind-off. As said in the very precise pattern, all left-over wrapped stitches are neatly taken care of during the bind-off. The 3 wrapped stitches are always in the second six stitches of one needle, you can’t miss them. Another trick for ensuring an elastic corner: yarn-over once before binding off the corner stitch, do NOT knit it but simply let it drop when you are past the corner. This way you have ample space to massage the finished corner into a nice flat edge for joining. Same applies for a crochet bind-off.

5) Blocking: I used a plywood board and stainless steel nails outlining a square. Hook in the stacked modules, about 8 at a time per square. Beneath the first square I placed cellophane (plastic from a shopping bag will do) to keep the square from getting stained.

Then I covered the stack with a wet towel wrung dry. After 12 hours the modules are perfectly blocked and dry. Regretfully, I don’t have a blocking board. But with this method, I can block a couple of modules at the same time, depending on the thickness of the module, and inevitably they are all the same size :-)

6) Joining modules to make a blanket.
With the MC yarn, I crocheted the modules together, framing each one - looked tidier than my sewing efforts.

7) Lining the blanket. This is a baby blanket and will probably be washed frequently. I found a lining always helps to keep a knitted blanket in shape and probably is easier on a baby’s sensitive skin. I used a German “Molton”, for UK/US knitters I would suggest a thin fleece or a thick flannel sheet. If new, wash and iron the fleece/flannel to avoid later shrinkage. Cut out a square/rectangle according to the dimensions of the blanket, adding about 1,5 cm (1 inch) all around.

Pin the fleece/flannel onto the blanket with great care so there are no folds or puckers - starting by pinning the four corners, then the sides and each center of the modules to the fleece/flannel lining. I secured the module centers on the lining with a firm cross-stitch. Then start sewing the lining to the blanket just before the edges, so the lining does not show when you look at the module side.

I used a narrow herringbone stitch for elasticity. I think the lining process is not much fun to do but it adds so much to the blanket, the weight is better and it probably outlasts the “baby stage” of the recipient in much better shape.
A nice tutorial for fabric lining a knit blanket is found here in the blog by Italian Dish Knits and for the stitch itself see this very detailed information in this blog by TECHKnitting.

A very nice project - thank you tincanknits!

Information on quantity: The 3 Red Heart Yarns skeins last for one 4x5 module blanket AND one 5x5 module blanket or two identical ones and 3 muffs (see muff link below). I needed not even one complete skein of MC Cascade Yarn for one blanket and I have about 1/3 of a skein left of the second one after having finished two blankets.

Ideas for leftover yarns: Knit modules for making a bag similar to this Motif bag. Used two modules each for knitting a muff - three altogether!

Click HERE for a tutorial by TinCanKnits.

Link to see my second POP blanket