I chose not to block my project, i.e. I simply laid it flat to dry as I wanted a scarf rather than a wrap. At a finished length of 81” it’s still plenty long and so very soft I can’t wait until winter to wear it wrapped around my neck multiple times.

I was a little worried that there would be a lot of bleeding of the dye but there was hardly any color bleed whatsoever. I used lukewarm water and a wool wash. Really amazing given the intensity of this yarn.

I found this a quick and easy knit. And you might find it more enjoyable to knit if you “read” your stitches rather than counting stitches. By that I mean, study the pattern and you will see it’s very logical and the “yarn overs” (YOs) are either increasing and/or decreasing and if you can spot your YOs on the row below you don’t have to count the stitches in between because you’ll know that you’ll place a YO the stitch after the YO on the row below. Since the border on each side is ribbing you can quickly spot an error if you make one because your ribbing will be off. Learning to “read” your stiches can be an incredibly helpful tool for knitting a pattern like this. There are all kinds of “markers” on both the right and wrong side rows. For example, you might note on the wrong side rows you will always begin the garterstitch segment one stitch after a YO, or where you made a decrease, or whatever stitch you can identify to help you see where you stop the ribbing and begin a different pattern element. Do keep the pattern laying across your lap as it is helpful to glance at periodically and to pick up any anomalies such as when there is a double purl stitch in the ribbing.

I found it helpful to black out each row after I knit it to help the current row stand out with just a glance.

It’s pretty much unavoidable to “count” the stitches for the short rows in the middle of the chart. I count the stitches for those rows - write them next to the chart - and when I wrap a stitch I use a stitch marker so it’s easier to pick up later. You don’t have to count back to the pattern elements after a short row because, again, if you read your stitches you know when to start with the design element.

The US 4 needles were used just for the tips (ie. roughly the first 30 rows) and then I switching to US 5. I did that at both ends because I wanted the tips to be a little more dense.

At the half way point (end of chart 3) I had 59g yarn left and my knitting (laying flat) measured 40” in length. At the end my scarf measured 81” in length and I had 6 grams remaining.