The idea was to create a pullover that could be worn without another garment underneath — but still keep the scallopy texture and movement of Liesl’s feather and fan stitch.

CO 85 stitches, for 17 pattern repeats, starting with row 6 of pattern to get a slightly wider neckline.

Yoke
Worked 6 reps of lace with purl ridges, then changed the yos to lifted increases (knitting into the head of the stitch below, then the stitch on needle) and the purl rows to St st. This retains the texture of feather and fan, but without the revealing holes.

Body
Divided for sleeves after 5 more reps of pattern.

BUST & WAIST SHAPING
Cast on 16 st under arms (instead of 12). Increased that repeat to 18 st over next two reps. Worked even until garment reached the fullest part of bust, then reduced underarm repeat to 16 st in next rep, 14 st for the following 2 reps, then back to 12 st.

I wanted a bit more waist shaping, so on the next “lace” round I started working decreases on the underarm repeats plus the two pattern repeats on either side of the underarm rep. It went like this:

Rep 1: 10-10-10
Rep 2: 10-8-10
Rep 3: 10-10-10
Rep 4: 12-10-12
Rep 5: 12-12-12

Worked even for one more vertical rep of pattern, then switched to #9 needles. Worked 2 more rounds, then switched back to the lace pattern with yos and purl ridges as written.

3 vertical reps of lace on #9s, 3 more on #10s, then bound off in purl directly after lace round in order to end with just a single purl ridge.

Note: It is quite easy to adjust the stitch count in a particular pattern repeat when you are working the yos as increases. It can be a bit trickier if you are working the yos, because Feather and Fan has to be a multiple of 6 stitches (6, 12, 18, 24, etc) to work.

Sleeves
Picked up 18 stitches under arms. Worked even to widest part of bicep, then decreased the underarm rep to 16 st, then 14 st, then back to 12 st over next three 4-row reps.

Worked even until the sleeve was a bit below the elbow, then switched to #9s for two reps. Switched to #10s and worked the lace pattern as written for 4 reps. Bound off in purl.

The yarn
All the while that I worked the body, mutterings and curses could be heard. I found the Summer Tweed pure misery to knit with. I love the spongey fabric it makes, but Jeez! Then when I moved on to the sleeves, I switched from Addi lace needles to slick anodized aluminum Kollage DPNs and working with the yarn got a lot easier. I still won’t be moving it to my favorites column anytime soon, though.