Finished dimensions after blocking: 7.5” wide x 66” long. Before blocking: 7.5” wide x 58” long.
Very happy with the scarf overall, it came out exactly as I had pictured it before I started. The yarn fuzzed up more than I thought as I was working it. I hope it holds up and doesn’t pill. It is very soft.
Wanted a wider scarf so I decided to work cf32 instead cf24 per original pattern. After extensive swatching to decide on edge finishing I thought it would look best if both edges had a 3 st rib instead of 2 st.
CO 66 with size 8 (5.0mm) needle using this stretchy cast-on from Helene Rush: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFM73c75ZEA. I like it better than the slip knot cast on. Worked first row with size 8 needle and then switched to size 10.
Started wth k3, then worked across in 2 x 2 rib, p3 at end each row.
Refigured number of rows to knit in plain 2 x 2 rib because of wider cables and also because I wanted the scarf to have a “looser” feel than the original cowl.
Worked a total of 32 rows in 2 x 2, then on row 33 worked k1, cf32, (k2 p2) across, p1. Thereafter worked (24 rows in 2 x 2, rep row 33) until I was halfway through the last ball of yarn. Worked 30 rows of 2 x 2 with size 10s, 1 row with size 8s, and last row with size 3s. BO using 3s with a method I may have invented, or maybe I saw it somewhere on YouTube. Anyway, what I did was BO in pattern, but wrapped the yarn around my needle twice before pulling through each stitch, then pull wrap over new stitch and pull prev stitch over new stitch. If I find a video I’ll add the location here. This BO matches my CO very very well, and because I used such small needles the BO end doesn’t flare.
What I learned from this project:
- Cables are reversible if the base fabric is ribbed.
- Larger cables are easier if stitches are slipped and knitted on dpns. (thank you zabby34).
- How to change the proportions of a cable pattern to get the look I want.
- New cast-on and bind-off methods for rib stitch and how to prevent flare on the BO end by changing needle size.