Initial sett using Ashenhurst rule - average of warp and weft figures is 61.5. Max sett for twill is 41 (61.5x2/3 - .67) This is a woolen fabric, so per Peggy Osterkamp I am starting with 65% of the max twill sett - rounded up is 27.
6/1 Found more skeins of warp singles after I finished winding what I already have! Very irritating. I could’ve made this much longer. I wound the extra to the same warp length, but had significantly underestimated how many ends there were (I hadn’t bothered counting since I was threading in a straight draw) and ended up with more width than my loom could accommodate. I switched to 32 EPI, and when I’m done with what’s been beamed already, I’m going to tie on to the old warp and continue weaving a narrower width with the rest, possibly re-setting @ 27.
8/18 Finally finished with all the warp. First length gave me an off-loom measurement of 4y and 24” wide, finished dimensions 3.5y and 22”. 32 EPI was definitely too close, and was more warp-faced than I wanted. It makes a nice textured fabric, slightly corrugated - as the photo shows. The second batch of warp was tied onto the ends of the old one, and re-sleyed @ 27 EPI as I’d originally intended. This gave me a much more even twill. Off-loom measurement is 8” wide, 4.22y. Still waiting for it to come out of the wash.