July 12, 2020:

I love this pattern.
The original pattern is written for 21 sts.

Sizes:
Large; 21 sts; 11” diameter; uses 49 g of yarn (pic: green cloth).
Medium; 18 sts; 9” diameter; uses 35 g of yarn.
Small; 15 sts; 7.5” diameter; uses 29 g of yarn.
I needed just over one ball of yarn for 2 dishcloths (one medium and one small).

Each pattern repeat (wedge) makes 3 petals. I worked a total of 6 repeats of the pattern (6 wedges, 18 petals) on both cloths.

Medium Dishcloth
Starting with a slipknot crochet a 20 - 22 stitch chain. Cut the provisional yarn and make a knot where the chain ends (farthest from the slipknot end). We will unravel from this end to pick up live sts before grafting.

Starting at the knotted end (non-slipknot end), pick up 18 sts with working yarn on US #6 needles.

Skip Row 1 (which is on the WS and would have been a row of knits). Start directly with Row 2 (RS) of pattern.

I am using smaller needles than recommended because I am intending these to be hotpads (and not dishcloths) and I like a hotpad fabric to be stiffer than those of a dishcloth.

The short rows are worked on the knotted end. This end also has the working yarn tail. The outside edge (flower petals) is at the provisional yarn tail end.

Flower Petal 1
Row 2 for me is k4, yo, k13, slip stitch (for the w&t short row).

When working the short row w&t st using the way described in the pattern, I was often making the mistake of knitting the slipped st on my return WS row. To prevent that, I changed my method to the following:

On a RS row, work until the st to be slipped is the 1st st on the LHN. Wyib, sl1 from the LHN to the RHN. Bring yarn forward as if to purl and slip the same st back to the LHN. Turn work.

For the 1st flower petal, on Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8, you will work k4, yo, k13, sl1 with w&t. On the return WS row, you will knit 18 sts (same as the original cast on number of sts) excluding all the slipped sts on the RHN.

Row 10 and all other bind off rows: I did the Icelandic Bind Off as it matches the garter selvage of the project really well. Here is a video by Suzanne Bryant showing the Icelandic Bind Off. Tighten the st just bound off to neaten the look. After binding off 4 sts there are again 18 sts on the needle.

So on row 10, BO4, k12, sl1, w&t.
On the WS knit back 13 sts. Compared to 18 you are missing 5 sts because you bound off 4 and did not work a yo on Row 10.

Flower Petal 2
On Rows 12, 14, 16, and 18, you will work k4, yo, k8 (=13-5), sl1 with w&t. On the return WS row, you will knit 13 (=18-5) sts.

Row 20: BO4, k7, sl1 w&t. On the WS knit back k8.

Flower Petal 3
On Rows 22, 24, 26, and 28, you will work k4, yo, k3 (=8-5), sl1 with w&t. On the return WS row, you will knit 8 (=13-5) sts.

Row 30: BO4, k3, knit the slipped w&t sts. Here is a video that show how to pick up the wraps (at around the 2:00 min mark of the video).

You again have the original cast on number of sts (in my case 18) on the needle. End of 1 pattern repeat.

Smaller Dishcloth
Provisional cast on 15 sts. Working these the same way as above.

Flower Petal 1
Row 2 for me is k4, yo, k10, slip stitch (for the w&t short row). On the return row knit back 15 sts.

On row 10, Icelandic BO4, k9, sl1, w&t.

Flower Petal 2
On Rows 12, 14, 16, and 18, you will work k4, yo, k5 (=10-5), sl1, w&t. On the return WS row, you will knit 10 (=15-5) sts.

Row 20: BO4, k4, sl1, w&t. On the WS knit back k5.

Flower Petal 3
On Rows 22, 24, 26, and 28, you will work k4, yo, sl1, w&t. On the return WS row, you will knit 5 (=10-5) sts.

Row 30: BO4, knit the slipped w&t sts.

Knitted Kitchener Grafting and Finishing
I did a total of 6 repeats of the pattern (18 flower petals). On the last repeat stop after binding off 4 sts on Row 30. Don’t knit the remaining sts. Slip the lone st from the right needle to the left needle. At this point I have 18 sts on the needle.

Unravel the provisional cast on, starting at the knotted end (farthest from the slipknot end). Pick up 18 sts from back to front so that they are mounted correctly on the needle.

I have 18 sts on both needles. Align them horizontally with RS out so that you have purl bumps and the working yarn on the outside of the front needle and knit sts on the outside (public side) of the back needle. This video explains garter grafting.

I used this video by Very Pink Knits to learn Kitchener grafting using knitting needles rather than a tapestry needle. I used this method for my grafting on this project.

It helps to understand that when you knit (purl) a stitch and pull yarn through, it yields the same outcome as taking a tapestry needle purlwise (knitwise) through the stitch. This is the reason why the Kitchener rules when doing Knitted Kitchener vs Tapestry needle Kitchener are the exact opposite of each other.

Knitted Kitchener Grafting for Garter Stitch…
2 Setup Rows:
With the working yarn,
Knit 1st st on the back needle (BN); pull yarn through. Pull yarn a bit to tighten stitch.

From the next stitch repeat the following sequence:

Remember to knit through the wraps and the stitch just like you would if you were just knitting Row 30.

1. Purl the 1st st on the FN, pull yarn through, drop the st and pull on the yarn (a little) again to snug up the stitch. Knit the 2nd st on the FN and pull yarn through but leave it on the FN. Again, pull on the yarn a bit to tighten the stitch. So do Purl off Knit on. I use the chant POFFKON

2. Purl the 1st st on the BN, pull yarn through, drop the st and pull yarn a little again to snug up the stitch. Knit the 2nd st on the BN and pull yarn through but leave it on the BN. Pull lightly on the yarn to tighten the stitch. Again the chant is POFFKON.

I have found this Kitchener method to work really well with sticky cotton yarn (like Sugar n Cream) where it gets tricky to tighten up loose grafted stitches.

I used the same working yarn to close the center hole, working on the RS.

Very happy with the project!!!