Mods:

Knitting one size up because gauge is between 18.5sts - 19sts rather than 18sts. Should end up with approx. 36” bust and 3” of ease on model.

Sleeves: Tubular cast on for 1x1 rib cuffs using 4.5mm. Switched to 5mm after four rows. Sleeves knit flat to keep tension/look same as body. One stitch added for seaming. Width and length requirement met 4 stitches short (each). This didn’t affect joining sleeves to body. Chain crocheted seam - I wanted the seam perfect but settled for good enough.

Body: Tubular cast on using Judy’s magic cast on with 6mm needles. Knit 4 rows, then established patten with 5mm needles. Worked 5 rows in pattern before beginning side cable pattern to avoid the cable twist in the hem.

Change of Stitch Pattern between shoulders on back:

• Row 2 (WS) Purled one row of stitches between sleeves. Not in the pattern, but I liked the look of it in the pattern photo. A nice reference to the line separating hems on body/arms.

As yoke decreased, adjusted decreases of arms to measurements rather than stitch count.

Yoke band: Each side of collar knit approx. 1” short of back centre, ending on a RS row (28 rows). Grafted pieces together first (see notes below) and then seamed yoke band to back with chain stitch crochet.

Before starting this project, I knew the first thing I’d look at once it was finished and every single time after that was the yoke band seam. So it had to be invisible. It had to be INVISIBLE! Suzanne Bryan’s tutorial on grafting 1x1 rib here.

It created only a very close graft, so a few duplicate stitches were added over the knit rows. I’m happy.

Armpits grafted, ends woven in, and wet blocked. Laid out flat to measurements. And waited.

Thoroughly dried, and after reading and looking at every single Kahlua posted on Ravelry, I decided to go with smurphy2’s solution to the high neckline at the back by using a set of 3 short rows - 10-6-6 sts from the centre.

Adding the band to the garter stitch edging makes a nice line on the inside, however, so if the band was knit as directed, it would still have a nice public view if the band flipped over.

Italian bind off on button band, but I wish I’d done a tubular bind off (somehow). Would look better.

Four one-row buttonholes created on Row 4, but probably should have happened on Row 5. These hand made wooden buttons were purchased at a Fibres West show held in Surrey, BC, from the CraftyJAK’s booth.