The pattern is actually very easy, but I felt the instructions given on the website were hard to follow and made the pattern look complicated.

ETA:
I spent the time to write the pattern out again for myself in a format I could follow easily. I’ve been asked by a few people if I would consider sharing my notes, so please see below, BUT TAKE NOTE:

These are my own notes, and for the newborn size only. I have knit this pattern once using these notes, so it is not rigorously tested and I may have missed something. Please use as a guide only. I didn’t write the original pattern and I am not selling/claiming that I have written it… If these notes work out well for you, that’s great and I’m glad that I have helped in a small way :-)

8mm circular needle – 60cm. When knitting in round, use magic loop technique until stitch increases make the knitting “large” enough for the length of the cable.

Increases – use YO. Knit/purl into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
Decreases - use K2tog.

Step 1 - Hood
Cast on 37 stitches. DO NOT join in round – the first part of the pattern is worked flat.
Row 1: K3, * K1, P1 * repeat * - * until last 3 stitches, K3
Row 2: K3, * P1, K1 * repeat * - * until last 3 stitches, K3
Row 3: K3, * P1, K1 * repeat * - * until last 3 stitches, K3
Repeat rows 1-3 until piece measures 19cm from cast on edge.

Step 2 – decrease and place markers (still worked flat)
Knit 1 row, placing markers and decreasing following these steps. All measurements are now taken from this RS row.
K4, place marker (after stitch 4), K2tog, K8, place marker (after stitch 13), K2tog, K7, place marker (after stitch 21), K2tog, K8, place marker (after stitch 30), K4 (34 stitches)

Knit 1 row (WS).

Step 3 – write check-off list
On a piece of paper, write numbers 1-15. Use this as your check-off list for the increases in step 4.

Step 4 – Increases
Increases are knit on RS rows as follows:
1YO after marker 1, 1YO before marker 2, 1YO after marker 3, 1YO before marker 4

RS row is knit, WS row is purl to create stockinette stitch when worked flat.

Row 1: Knit row and follow increase pattern as above, slipping markers as you go. Check off the row from the list (e.g. this is increase row 1)
Row 2: K3, Purl to last 3 stitches, K3 (purl into back of YO’s from previous row to avoid a hole)
Row 3: Knit row and follow increase pattern as above, slipping markers as you go. Check off the row from the list (e.g. this is increase row 2)
Row 4: , Purl to last 3 stitches, K3 (purl into back of YO’s from previous row to avoid a hole)

Continue working flat in pattern set above until piece measures 6cm from first knit row in step 2.

Step 4 – join round & continue increases
Join round, place marker (this will be in the middle of what was the 6 garter stitches). If this round is an increase round (as per your check-off list), ensure you complete the increases as per the pattern and your check-off list.

Knit all rounds from this point, following the increase pattern set in step 3. You must continue to increase on alternate rounds as dictated by your check-off list. When you reach the end of the list (15 increase rows), you should have 98 stitches.

Step 5 – increase 1 stitch and border
K49, YO, K49 (99 stitches)

Start border pattern (note if you are using this to help you work out larger sizes, the border pattern needs an ODD number of stitches to work):

Row 1: * K1, P1 * repeat * - *
Row 2: * P1, K1 * repeat * - *
Row 3: * P1, K1 * repeat * - *

Continue border until it measures 4cm
Knit 1 row
Cast off loosely.

Step 6 – Assembly
Sew hood edges together at top, lining up garter stitch border at front.

Optional: Crochet or iCord a suitable length cord to thread in & out of knit row at neckline (base of hood and start of body). Use your own judgement as to whether you think this is safe on a baby garment.

As I said above, these are my own notes. If they are helpful, please let me know. If you feel there is a mistake, please also let me know, but I can’t spend hours on pattern support or updates (even though I would love to!)