I used the directions from Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Knitting Workshop (The Tomten Jacket) and made ONE of Jared’s (Brooklyn Tweed) modifications. The problem with Zimmerman’s directions are that they are for children, and everything is stated in terms of how many ridges (a garter ridge is 2 rows). So, I did a little figuring based on proportions, my gauge, and Nick’s measurements.

I also did a few comparisons to EZ’s directions to decide on the length for the back to arm hole opening, and armhole opening to neck. SO this is what I decided for a 5’9” THIN male with a chest measurement of 35”

Lower edge to armhole opening = 14” (50 ridges)
Armhole opening to Shoulder seam = 10” (36 ridges)
Width for Jacket = 38” (this does NOT include a 1.5-2” border on each front) for a total width of 39.5-40”
Sleeves -- tricky, Once I could see a clear shoulder (the beginning of the decreases) I measured a coat that fit from the shoulder seam to the wrist, and knit up the sleeves to be the same length from the top of the shoulder -- identified by the decreasing -- it worked out to be around 20”

Works out that it is 3.6 st/inch -- so I CO 136 for a 38” wide sweater (later I added an edging that was abut 2”)

Here she blows:

1. CO 136 Stitches
2. Knit for 14” -- around 50 ridges. (remember garter stitch grows, so you don’t need to make the thing over long) -- you can work a few short rows on the BACK section to prevent ride up.
3. Divide into 5 sections, Section 1 has 17 st and is one of the fronts, Section 2 has 34 st and is the ‘deep’ armhole (leave these stitches on holder until you are ready to do the arms) Section 3 has 34 stitches and is the back, section 4 has 34 stitches and is the other armhole, section 5 has 17 stitches and is the other front.
4. Knit Sections 1,3,5 until they are the desired length to the neck, Zimmerman recommends that you knit twice as many ridges as you have stitches on sections 1 & 5 -- this actually worked out quite nicely. I knit the back section up first, and then knit the two front sections to the same length -- NOTE the neck modifications below as applied to the right and left fronts (there is a gradual decrease for v-neck shaping)

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V-NECK Shaping

1. On the fronts, I applied the Jared Flood decrease -- to shape the neck and reduce the overall number of stitches that will form the hood. I’m not convinced this was necessary. 6” from the desired length I decreased one stitch on the neck edge every 4th row until 10 stitches remained.
2. Once the fronts, and back were knit up I used 5 stitches from the armhole side of the left front with 5 stitches from the neck side of the back and did a 3 needle bind-off. I kept binding off stitches across the back until there were 5 stitches left, I then bound these off with 5 stitches from the right front, then knit the stitches that remained on the right front.
3. Ready to knit the neck/hoodie -- with the right side facing, knit the 5 front stitches, pick up 1 or 2 stitches in the shoulder bindoff area, pick up the bound off back stitches, another 1-2 at the left shoulder and knit the last 5 of the front. WHEW
4. Knit 2-4 ridges plain, then start increasing on either side of a center mark. I had 38 stitches to start, and increased to 62 (64 would be ok too). Increase on either side of the center every 2nd row 8 times, and then every 4th row until you have 62-64 stitches.
5. Knit to 13” (or desired height -- measure it!) and then do a garter stitch kitchener graft.

Postmortem NOTATION
Looking over my notes, and the Zimmerman percentage system, I think that it would be best to eliminate the v-neck shaping, and KEEP the 5-stitch 3 needle bind off. This would reduce the neck by 20 stitches -- for this project it would be 48 stitches -- pick up an extra 2 at each shoulder and you’ll have a total of 52 for the neck opening -- which is 38% and Zimmerman recommends 40% for a neck opening.

SLEEVES

1. Pick up the stitches around the arm opening -- for me it was 44 stitches on either side of the shoulder seam stitch. Knit for 4” before beginning the decrease -- don’t forget to keep the shoulder stitch in stockinette. I knit did 5 ridges in the contrasting color and the rest in the main color.
2. While you are knitting the inset you are also ‘eating’ up the stitches that are held on the holder -- remember the ‘underarm’. At the end of a row, you knit two together, the last stitch on your needles with one stitch from the holder, this will ‘gobble’ up all the held stitches for the under arm.
3. MEANWHILE at the top of the sleeve, make the center stitch a stockinette stitch (k on the right side and p on the wrong side) and once you have 4” (including the shoulder seam) start decreasing 1 stitch on either side of the center stitch every 3rd ridge until 1/4 of the total stitches remain -- in this case it was 34 st.
4. Once I was at about 18” from the top of the shoulder (just where the decreasing started) I did another band of contrasting and then main color and bind off -- you’ll have to experiment to get just the right length. -- Repeat for the other sleeve.

EDGING
This was easy

1. I picked up 1 st for every ridge from the bottom front edge, around the hood and down the other side in which ever yarn you want. Jim’s Tomten I used the main color and did the i-cord edging in the contrasting color. What ever you want -- both look good
2. If you want button holes, start figuring where to place them and work them into the band or into the i-cord.
3. I knit the requisite 5 ridges in contrasting color then did a 3 stitch i-cord bind off in the main color.