Working a modified version, combining picot border along bottom and top edges, and seed stitch border on sides. Using notes from Sea of Dreams blanket as general guidance, though altering number of stitches and rows.

BOTTOM EDGING:

• CO 129 sts over size 7 and 5 needles held together, keeping extra cable on size 5 needle in place for easy pickup when joining picot edging. Swapped out tips of size 7 needles to size 6 to begin knitting, leaving extra cable with cast-on and size 5 needles in place for joining picot edging later (instead of having to either do a provisional cast-on or pick up 129 stitches).

• Worked 5 rows in stockinette (on size 6 needles) before picot row: k1(yo, k2tog) on row 6 (rs).

• Changed to size 7 needles and worked 5 rows in stockinette until joining cast-on row with current RS row.

• Continued on size 7 needles from this point on; worked two rows of reverse stockinette stitch (knit on WS, purl RS), then did another picot row (just for eyelets, not folding over), then another two rows of reverse stockinette stitch - see next bullet point.

• On last row of reverse stockinette, worked ssk after first 8 sts, and k2tog at end of row when 10 sts remained, leaving 9 sts on each side for borders. (Did this because I decided to change the way I wanted to work the side borders after I’d completed the bottom edging; if I made this again, I’d just cast on 127 sts to begin with.)

• Final size of finished bottom edging: 1.5” (including folded picot edging).

SIDE EDGING:

• Modified side edging to mesh better with modified bottom border. Created garter stitch pattern with centered eyelet on each side of blanket.

• With nine stitches on each side, worked following patterns:

• R1. RS row, first (right side) border: k4, yo, k2tog, k3.

• R1. RS row, last (left side) border: k3, ssk, yo, k4.

• R2 & all WS rows, knit across all sts.

• R3. RS row, knit across all stitches.

BODY:

• Used chart for body, but I don’t do left and right twists the way the designer does. For a LT, I knit through the back loop of the second stitch, keep it on the needle, then knit the first stitch as normal and then off. For a RT, I knit through both stitches together, keep both on the needle, then knit the first stitch as normal and then off.

• Clusters: The clusters are perhaps the only “tricky” part of this pattern. How to make them is explained well in the pattern, although I chose to do what G-knits did, and first knit them directly on to a same-sized dpn, rather than on to the right needle, then transferring them back to the dpn itself. It may seem like a small step, but when you’re working it 16 times per chart repeat (for the stroller size, which is next-to-smallest), it adds up! At first, I was most concerned about making them all the same size. After my initial row, however, it became clear that they need to be wrapped pretty snugly, and most importantly, the next purl stitch needs to be made as tightly as possible! If this is not done, a hole is created between the cluster and the stitch after it. I was able to finesse the stitches around to redistribute some of the yarn and remove the gaps on my initial row. That said, it was much easier on my second pass to be sure that my purl stitch following each cluster was VERY SNUG, as was the corresponding stitch (and cluster stitches) on the WS row.

• Worked 9.5 chart repeats, ending after row 13.

TOP EDGING:

• Worked border in reverse, remaining on size 7 needles.

• On first row, added an increase (pfb) after first nine stitches, and again before last nine stitches.

• Worked two rows of reverse stockinette.

• Worked picot row: k1(yo, k2tog) then two more rows of reverse stockinette.

• Worked one row in stockinette, leaving cable in row for bind-off later. (Note: used this as a guideline only, as final seaming had to be by hand; no live stitches could remain on top border.)

• Worked four more rows in stockinette.

• Changed to size 6 needles.

• Worked picot row: k1(yo, k2tog).

• Knit five rows in stockinette.

• Bound off (standard method; knit 2 stitches, slip first stitch over second) using a size 8 needle.

• Seamed binding together with top of stockinette row.

YARN:

• First skein of yarn got through border (although I used a much modified version than the original pattern called for) and 2.5 repeats of the pattern. Began second skein of yarn on third repeat, row 13 of chart.

• Second skein (all chart work) ran from row 14 of chart (in third repeat) to seventh repeat, through fifth row. In total, then, a full skein of Vintage used in this (slightly modified) stroller size will cover approximately 73 rows in pattern. Although I am working a slightly narrower side border (9 sts/side vs. 13/side that is called for in pattern).

• Third skein worked remainder of chart; used a small amount of fourth skein for top border and final seaming.

Note to self: Worked this project through Knit Companion, which took no time to set up, and was invaluable for the chart section. As something new, I tried to keep the time I was actively using the app accurate, in order to attempt to realistically track my hours. If I stepped away and left it open, I’d go back and adjust the time as a result. According to the app, I worked on just the knitting pattern for 88 hours. This does NOT take into consideration the time I spent going to purchase the yarn, designing both the top and bottom edging, the side borders, and modifying the stitch counts to accommodate those changes. In addition, once I’d memorized the pattern, there were times when it seemed wasteful to keep the app on, burning not only electricity, but my screen as well. As a result, I’d estimate that a realistic number would probably be closer to 100 hours, which is REALLY SLOW for me. I’m blaming the Little People who live here, and will be interested in tracking my next project, which will take place while they’re back in school!