There is so much errata for this pattern, I hope I covered it all here. I’ve noticed that just a few people have ever finished this pattern and I fell these errors may have contributed to that.
I intend to knit another one for a friend in her house colors and when I do, I will take photos and write this out in a more complete format, for easy reading. I love this pattern so much and it worked after I had to fix things and I want other people to enjoy it as well.

Noticed some mistakes in the pattern:

NECK
k37(40,43), k2tog, k3. pleace rem sts on holder.
next row: purl
next row (dec row): k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 rep these rows until 10 sts dec, then rep the dec row every other RS row until 6 more sts dec. work even for 9 rows.

BO 6 (7,8) sts at beg of next row and every other RS row until 8 sts rem. BO.

rejoin yarn and shape other side to match, using ssk to dec instead of k2tog.

I found that this should be BO 6 (7,8) sts at the beg on next row and every RS row until 8 sts remain. BO.
If you do dec ever other row, it makes a very jagged edge, where as every RS row makes a smoother line.

For the left (facing) side of the V neck, I worked even 10 rows so I could BO of the WS of the work.

Noticed some mistakes in the pattern:
ARMHOLES
CO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows
next row: k3, ssk, to to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3

to should be k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3

SHAPE SHOULDER & NECK
BO 6(7,8) sts, k20(22,24), k2tog, k1. place rem sts on holder.
next row: purl
next row: BO 6(7,8), k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
rep these two rows until 8 sts rem.
BO, rejoin yarn and shape other side to match, using ssk to dec instead of k2tog.

This one is a little longer to explain. When I fallowed this for my size (Medium) I noticed it was very lopsided. I had 94 sts before dividing into the shoulders. I divided them in half and held 47 sts on my holder and fallowed the BO 7 (for my size) then k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Also you want to work the left shoulder first.

For the right shoulder, I BO purl wise and purled across then there is a version of ssk for purl you can look up, because I was now on the WS of the work.

SLEEVES SHAPE HEAD
BO 4(4,5) sts at beg of next 2 rows
next row: k1, ssk, ssk, work to last 5 sts, k2tog, k2tog, k1
next row: purl
rep these two rows once more
dec 1 at each end of every RS row until 24(26,26) sts rem. BO

The sleeve tops were far too short with this method.
next row: k1, ssk, ssk, work to last 5 sts, k2tog, k2tog, k1
should be: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

MAKING UP
weave in yarn ends
if using wool or wool blend, block each piece into shape.
join shoulder seams with backstitch, sew sleeves into place with mattress stitch, seam arms and body with mattress stitch.

This is listed at the end of the pattern when really, this needs to be done before doing the neckband.

NECKBAND
using 3.75mm needle with MC, with RS facing starting at the tip of the V, pick up sts evenly around the neckline.
work in k1 p1 rib for 1 rnd
next rnd (dec rnd): work 1, ssk, rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, work 1
working dec rnd every other rnd as est, OLD STYLE - work 2 rnds in CC1, 4 in CC2, 2 in CC1, 2 in MC. NEW STYLE - work in MC for 10 rnds.
BO in rib.

I personally like a 2x2 rib, so I picked up sts divisible by 4. I ended up with 80 sts picked up. I k1, (p2, k2) k1 for the first row. I ssk, p1, k2, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p1, k2tog for the second row. I worked this pattern for five total rows and BO in standard knit. When I did 10 rows, the opening was too small for my head and when I BO in rib, it didn’t stretch enough to fit my head either.