CO54 sts with the smaller size needles using Judy Becker Magic Cast-on for the provisional cast-on.
Top needle has shorter cable for provisional stitches.
Join in round and knit 4 rounds.
Knit picot row starting with yo followed by k2tog.
Knit four more rounds.
Fold hem with provisional sts to the back, pair up and knit together the provisional sts with the working sts. https://youtu.be/blm16tMxAlA

To set up the JBMCO for picot edge in the round:

1. Use the smaller size needle for both the provisional circular needle and the working circular needle for inner layer of picot hem.
2. Use the shorter cable to hold provisional sts and the shorter cable helps distinguish it from the longer working cable.
3. During the JBMCO, hold the provisional circular needle tip in the upper needle position.
4. After casting on the sts, rotate needles so the working needle is now on top and knit across working circular needle, catching the tail. Then pull cable through midpoint of sts to form magic loop and join in the round.
5. Slide provisional sts onto the cable and pass a bulb-shape pin through holes in the cable ends to secure the provisional sts.
6. Work 4 rows stockinette after the cast-on.
7. Picot round: (yo, k2tog) rep to end.
8. Knit one round, switch to larger needles and work 3 more rounds of stockinette.
9. Fold picot hem bringing the provisional circular to inside the round and knit 2 tog one st from working circular with one st from provisional circular. Knit one additional round before starting the lateral braid. This is an extra round from instructions but makes the braid easier to work.

Vikkel aka Estonian Braid
Set-up: M1 using cable cast-on and slip new st back to LN.

1. With RN, go behind 1st st on LN and knit the 2nd st tbl, keeping stitches on needle.
2. Swing the RN to the front and knit into 1st st on LN.
3. Slip the two worked sts off LN.
4. Transfer the end st on the RN onto the LN. Rep steps 1-4 until worked all the sts. Move BOR marker temporarily out of the way, slip 1st st on LN to the RN, Pass 2nd st from end over the slipped st like a bind off. Transfer st back to the LN and place BOR marker. https://youtu.be/ENgbW-xGpOo

Love the look of the Vikkel braid. I have used the Latvian Braid before on other mittens.
Some other comments with this project suggest knitting the previous row or the braid row with larger needles. I used the same size needle but pulled the loop when knitting the 2nd st tbl with sufficient yarn to twist around to the front similar to a cable cast-on.

Catching vertical floats. Brought resting yarn under and over working yarn. https://youtu.be/HPGFrdqQR8Q.

Stranded Colorwork (US2.5) Gauge: 20sts/3”= 6.67spi x4= 26.67
27 sts and 32 rounds in 4”
Mitten with total sts (58 sts) added for body of the mitten: 4.25” across.
Hand circumference: 7.5”
Wrist circumference: 6”

First cuff knit w US 2.5 and mitt body US 3.
Tried cuff on for fit around my wrist and turn cuff upside down to check fit on hand after total stitches were added at end of the cuff. There’s lots of room at the wrist but hand is just slightly large. The recipient’s hand is a little smaller than mine so I’ll go down to a US1.5 on the cuff and a US 2.5 on the body of the mitten.

I was researching the Norwegian Selbu Mittens and one of the criteria is to place the Beging-of-the-round at the pinky side of the mitten instead of the thumb side. It makes the BOR less noticeable. So I place BOR opposite the thumb gusset.